Eight years previously we had hiked the ‘O’ circuit – now we were back in Torres del Paine for a more relaxed visit with a hire car. The National Park covers 181,414 hectares of some of the most stunning mountain scenery in southern Patagonian Chile. From the north of the park to the south, there are easily accessible roadside viewpoints and minor walks to take your breath away.
Volcanic activity and glacial erosion are quite commonplace in geological terms, but occasionally they combine to stunning effect, such as in Torres del Paine where they have produced the three iconic towers – and the best views of the Torres del Paine are free!
We decided to start our explorations at the top end of the park, spending our first night en route wild camping on the southern shores of Lago Sarmiento. We had a superb view of the towers directly over the lake and it was nice just to watch the rapidly changing clouds and light in the fierce Patagonian winds.
A stroll on the shore threw up puma prints (but no puma unfortunately) and strange white rocks which looked as if they may once have been vast coral formations; walking amongst them was like being in the ocean.
At the end of the road is the picture perfect Estancia Lazo which offers accommodation and horse riding trips around Laguna Verde and the beautiful valley. It is also possible to walk to Mirador Lago Toro which takes about 4 hours and leads through prime guanaco/puma country.
It was worth the drive to move along the face of the mountains, leaving the towers behind and ending up opposite Los Cuernos (the horns), another striking rock medley of slick, silvery granite topped with a dark layer of clay.
Laguna Azul
We backtracked along the lake and then drove north to Laguna Azul which is one of the northernmost lakes in the park and outside the fee area. It is approached through wild mountain scenery which is renowned for its puma sightings. It is actually one of the hidden gems of the park and it would be a shame to overlook it.
We checked into Camping Laguna Azul where we found a fabulous spot on the elevated edge of the lake to pitch our tent. We were later delighted to find super fast Starlink and piping hot high pressure showers, but first we set off on the Laguna Cebolla walk.
This one is a bit of a commitment as it is nearly 20 km return, although a fairly easy walk which skirts Laguna Azul then undulates through the hills to the picturesque Laguna Cebolla. Indeed, one could just stop at the excellent viewpoint at the end of Laguna Azul, still get a wonderful view and shorten the day considerably.
An added delight were the millions of wild daisies which lined the track and festooned the hillsides, as well as delicate yellow Lady’s Slipper orchids. Sadly, the three famous towers of the Cordillera Paine kept their faces hidden in clouds.
That evening we watched the sun sink brilliantly behind them, silhouetting them against the sky. The night was clear and unusually windless: when I awoke in the early hours, they were reflected in the quiet waters of the lake as stars twinkled above them.
The following morning the towers were clear but the sun was obscured so their colours remained subdued – as they are only visible 40% of the time, one has to be grateful if they are visible at all.
We did another rather shorter walk from the campsite, which skirted the edge of the 1000 m Sierra Masle to a fine viewpoint over the lake and the towers. The track then dropped down, keeping them constantly in sight and I thought how idyllic it was, winding along the flowery slopes with such a view, on a sunny day with few people in sight – one of the advantages of this quieter end of the park.
South from Laguna Azul
Heading southwards, we stopped at the fabulous Cascada del Paine, where huge torrents of blue glacial water from the southern Patagonian icefields pour through a narrowing of the Rio Paine, scattering water droplets in a fine mist over the banks. It was a superb sight with the soaring towers offset by the river and better yet, about one minute from the car park – although it seems to attract less visitors being at the northern end of the park.
The following stretch of road towards the park entrance has more wonderful views of them as has Laguna Amarga, which is also known for its flamingos, although none were in residence on our visit.
All of the above mentioned areas can be visited for free and all offer stunning vistas of the towers – in fact nothing inside the park comes close, unless you choose to do the 1000m, 10 hour return hike to their base.
Into the park
However, if you want to see the other iconic feature, the Cuernos, it is best to pay at the nearby Laguna Amarga entrance gate where there are self-service kiosks (Serrano also has one) which accept cards. They are quick and quite simple to use.
Foreigners pay an elevated rate (CLP34,000 for 3 days or CLP48,500 for more than 3) although I don’t think anyone is keeping track of entrances and exits. The money is certainly not going towards the roads in the park: the next 26 km were a juddering nightmare of fierce corrugations and dust.
Driving south through the park, Nortenskjöld Viewpoint gives one the first real taste of the great granite outcrops of the Cuernos, with their striking darker clay caps. They are the result of magma intrusions and later weathering. Between 2000-2,500 m high, they are a distinctive feature of the park along with the towers. Mt Paine Grande to their side is the highest peak in the park.
Soon afterwards, one comes to one of the most popular stops in the park: the Salto Grande waterfall, an easy 10 minute walk from the car park. A trail leads on 2.5 km to the Mirador Cuernos, an impressive lookout underneath their smooth silvery heights with the blue of Nordenskjöld Lake as a vivid contrast.
Lake Pehoé
It was a grandstand view for 5 minutes of minor effort. The Cuernos rose majestically in front of me over the glacial blue waters of Pehoé Lake. To their left, separated by the more gentle Valle del Frances, were the heights of Punta Bariloche (2,660 m, Cima Central (2,730 m) and Cerro Paine Grande (3,050 m), with a spectacular hanging glacier crowning the saddles between them.
We had checked into Camping Pehoé for our next two nights in the park, and were grateful for their sheltered camping spots amidst the trees. The facilities were a little ragged around the edges but the shower was hot and the restaurant had a good set menu for CLP35,000, the meat being cooked on an open fire.
Plus the lookout at the bottom of the campsite has a view to die for. We took evening drinks up to the grassy outcrop, thoughtfully furnished with a big bench, and went back after supper for the sunset which lit the mountains up in soft pink tones.
The following morning, I rose at 5 am to see the sunrise, an established ritual of the park. Although the view was still beautiful, nothing dramatic happened and the colours didn’t glow as much as I had thought they might. I returned to bed after an hour thinking I probably wouldn’t bother again – after all, one of the great luxuries in life is not having to get up in the morning!
Lago Grey
The 20 km trip from the campsite to Lago Grey took an hour due to the appalling roads in the park. At Hotel Grey (one of the nicer hotels in the park) we booked the 6 pm boat trip to the Grey glacier, rather later than we had intended, but it allowed Simon to do the energetic 3 km uphill walk to Mirador Ferrier, a lookout giving a wide view over the lakes and ice fields.
I was left to wander on the beach which is composed of terminal moraine left from the glacier which like many others is in retreat. On another windy day, icebergs had been blown into a corner of the bay where they glowed with an inner blue purity.
We met up for coffee and brownies at the carpark cafe later in the afternoon before heading back to the hotel to check in – they also have excellent WiFi – before schlepping back along the beach to join the boat.
This was quite a jolly affair, enlivened by a non-stop bilingual commentary by an enthusiastic guide and a calafate or pisco sour cocktail option. Calafate is a native berry so I chose that one, a pretty lilac concoction and it was quite tasty.
Soon afterwards we were allowed out on the top deck and we stayed there until the return home to fully enjoy the stunning views. Glacier Grey is 6 km wide and 28 km long and is part of the southern Patagonian icefields. It merges into the 14 km long Lago Grey around two islands, creating three different tongues.
After a brief stop at the Refugio Grey jetty to pick up and drop off hikers or people staying there, we approached the nearby glacier tongue. We were on the cusp of sunset but the face and crevasses still shone with a blue radiance. The following two faces were equally as impressive and when we slipped away the side view revealed serried ranks standing to attention.
The return trip down the lake went smoothly, the glacier receding into the distance behind a flapping Chilean flag. The walk back along the beach and then the drive to our campsite meant we ended up having a rather late night.
Mirador Condor
Before we left there was one last walk I wanted to do: the 1.4 km, 200 m climb to the Mirador Condor, supposedly one of the best views in the park, and handily just above our campsite.
It was indeed worth the sometimes breathless ascent and high winds on the collar to appreciate the 360° views from the top of this distinctive round mountain whose face is streaked with white tracks left by condor droppings from their nests- a pair circled high overhead as I climbed.
It was a stunning view. Whilst I don’t think the view of Los Cuernos was any better than that from the campsite lookout, one did have the extensive, deep blue of Pehoé Lake in the foreground, along with Hosteria Pehoé, the oldest hotel in the park. It sits on a little island linked to the mainland by a long walkway and it is one of the iconic images of the park.
It was a good way to finish – although less energetic than our first visit, it had been just as enjoyable and actually nice to step back and take in the overall view in a relaxed fashion. There is something in Torres for everyone!
NOTES
Camping Laguna Azul has tent camping for CLP 15,000 per person or CLP 10,000 in a motorhome. It can also supply ready made tents and all meals if wanted.
Camping Pehoé has tent camping for CLP 15,000 per person or CLP 20,000 with a shelter and BBQ. There is a restaurant on site.
Trips to see the Grey Glacier are run by Hotel Grey. They cost CPL 110,000 and depart four times a day. They are popular so book ahead if you can. It is possible to get off at Refugio Grey to do a day hike to the glacier viewpoints (over a cool suspension bridge), walks on the glacier or kayaking, and either get a later boat back or stay at the refuge.
Puma tracking tours are run by Chile Nativo or Wayaja Puma and start from about US$500 a day.
Park entry fees can be bought from self serve kiosks at Serrano and Laguna Amarga entrances or online here.
