The season was drawing to an end in Alaska but we still had a bit of exploring to do on the Kenai Peninsula. World class fishing, huge glaciers, cosy towns, magnificent scenery and all easily accessible from Anchorage – the  Alaska in miniature of which everyone dreams.

Hope

Abandon Hope all ye who enter here!

It wasn’t actually that bad, but it was the middle of August in Alaska and already things were winding down. Hope was closed, the log cabins firmly shuttered, the lights off; the only signs of movement came from the dead salmon floating in the creek.

It was a shame as Hope looked rather charming, a small scattered hamlet of historic log cabins, the sort of place that could be very jolly on a good day with the sun shining on the waving grasses that led one’s eye out to the Cook Inlet. 

The setting was beautiful, nestling on the southern side of Turnagain Arm, the 45 mile long inlet in the Gulf of Alaska whose name is derived from Captain Cook who discovered he’d reached a dead end in 1778.

We rather felt we had reached a dead end too. It had been a day of relentless steady rain and the Cook Inlet was a study in soft grey. The tide rose and fell soundlessly, exposing vast mud flats and even the famous bore turned out to be a bit of an anticlimax, the incoming tide creating merely a ripple across the waters.

The bore occurs when a super low tide crashes into a super high tide in the narrow arm and generally arrives 2-3 hours after low tide in Anchorage – it only travels at 6-24 mph, although surfers have been known to ride the 5-10 foot waves.

It probably would have looked better from the other side of the inlet than in Hope but we hadn’t fancied the long trek around the bay. Instead we explored Hope whilst we awaited the tide, having a wander around the log cabins of the museum area and walking a couple of miles out on the Gull Point trail which actually shadows the arm and ends at a campsite after 5 miles – it would be a nice trail for an overnight walk.

The forest vegetation is beautifully lush and there is the nicely sited Porcupine campsite at the start of the trail which has great views across the inlet. We were actually camping at another inlet just before Hope which would have had equally magnificent views if it weren’t for the rain. 

Instead we watched the tide go out steadily, revealing vast indented mud flats, a combination of glacial silt and sand that traps the unwary walker in a concrete like embrace. There were signs everywhere warning against walking on them as the chances of getting rescued before the tide comes in can be slim.

There were no Grounds for Hope: even the coffee shop was closed. We left for Seward.

Exit Glacier

If Hope were closed, Exit Glacier had exited. One drives in past a sign saying 1815 which was the furthest extent of the glacier in that year; a mile later after a pleasant amble through the woods, you get to Glacier Overlook – and it is still a way away. 

The best view is actually from the glacial outflow area at the bottom where one can look up the valley onto the glacier, although it’s tongue is still hidden in a narrow cleft.

This is one where if you want a good view you are going to have to get hot and sweaty and do the 8.2 mile return Harding Icefield Trail which leads steeply up towards the top of the icefield which stretches some 700² miles across the mountains. 

Seward

At least things were looking a bit brighter in this pleasant, buzzy little town. It is beautifully sited on Resurrection Bay where the Russians built a fort and shipyard in 1792.

Seward is actually named after President Lincoln’s Secretary of State who negotiated the purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867 at a bargain price of two cents per acre or $7,200,000 – known as Seward’s Folly at the time!

It is also where the famous Iditarod Trail started, a 2,300 mile network between Seward and Nome, a far western outpost – a sign on the waterfront commemorates the spot. From 1910 to 1923 tonnes of supplies, mail and gold were carried along the trail by husky teams.

When the Government-built Alaska Railway was opened in 1923 it provided another boost to the town – it is a now popular day trip from Anchorage between mid-May and mid-September, although it doesn’t venture all the way down to the wharf these days. The original train station is still there; it is now a cafe with a nice verandah.

It is included in the Historic Walking Tour which covers 46 sites and various interpretative panels – pick up a leaflet on your way into town at the Seward Chamber of Commerce.

The Chamber of Commerce is also a good introduction to one of Seward’s other claims to fame – that of Mural Capital of Alaska – there is a colourful seascape of the Kenai Fjords National Park next to it. I think the mural number is now up to 33 and as you drive around you will notice them decorating buildings – the subjects are diverse although the wildlife of the bay is the dominant theme.

Seward is mostly famous for its wild 4th July foot race up Mount Marathon, regarded as one of the hardest in the world – that’s the bare scree slope that towers steeply above town and if you look up, a faint trail can be seen running up the ridge line.

It seems completely bonkers to me: a 3.1 mile run from sea level to 3,022 feet – and back again! The average slope is 34°, the steepest 60° and the record is 41.26 minutes. Dating back to 1915, many of the contestants end up bloody and bruised – which may be part of the attraction for the 30,000 spectators who descend on the town for the festival. It is possible to walk up it by a less treacherous route and at least you will have time to enjoy the views!

Gentler walking is found around the waterfront of Seward where you might spot seals and sea otters but for an assured sighting, visit the Alaska Sealife Center which combines an aquarium with a marine mammal rehabilitation facility.

A lot of the waterfront is actually devoted to pricey R.V. and tent camping – they certainly have the most fabulous views. It is also a popular cruise ship stop and there is a free shuttle which runs between the cruise ship terminal and downtown which can be useful.

The town is actually quite lively by Alaskan standards, with no less than three craft breweries, buzzy coffee shops – don’t miss the charming Resurrect Art Coffee House in an old church – and restaurants; the keen fisherman can even take his catch to Apollo Restaurant where they will cook it for you!

On the way to Exit Glacier, the Resurrection Roadhouse also does a popular breakfast buffet between 6-9 am. For central digs on the harbour, the Harbour 360 Hotel is a good choice.

Around the Inlet

Seward is another place to get on a boat or in a kayak to see various glaciers in the inlet. If you are lucky you may get to see grey or humpback whales and there is a resident all year round orca pod.

Lowell Point State Recreation Site is down the arm of the inlet and allows access to a pretty pebbly beach which was littered with jelly fish on our visit. 

The drive out via Miller’s Landing led through classic beach shack territory with some rather better examples overlooking the beach.

From the carpark, trails lead further down the inlet to the historic WWll site of Fort McGilvray where there are various public use cabins and camping spots. It is possible to get a water taxi there and walk back for an easier option; some of the route is only accessible at low tide, so some care is needed.

Beyond the town, the Chugach National Forest offers more hiking opportunities with numerous trails and lots of good fishing. One popular option is Lost Lake which starts just outside town and goes 15 miles to Primrose Trailhead if you choose to tackle it in its entirety. The Dale Clemons cabin is just 4.5.miles from the trailhead and has a beautiful view of Seward.

In a region where even Captain Cook ground to a halt, some dead ends are better than others. At least Seward is sufficiently big that you will never find it completely closed!

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