Accommodation is expensive in Ushuaia, the world’s ‘southernmost city’ in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, and the place is not that attractive. However, there is some beautiful countryside nearby with great free camping opportunities. Here are 10 of our favorites.
1 Estancia Harberton – Rio Cambaceres
A worthwhile destination in its own right, this estancia dates back to 1886 and has a fascinating history. In a beautiful location on a headland near the Beagle Channel, there are guided tours and a nice cafe in the old house.
The Museo Acatushun at the entrance to the property has a superb display of marine animal skeletons and the AR$45,000 entrance charge covers both attractions.
The entrance booth at the Museo issues permits for the three free camping spots on the property. All are on rivers, but the most attractive is undoubtedly Rio Cambaceres, with serene views out to the Beagle Channel. We had a couple of idyllic days there and in the evenings you can watch the Antarctic ships heading out. There is plenty of space for tents or trucks.
Tip: Be sure to walk up the distinctive hill overlooking the Beagle on the western side of the bridge just before the camping area: it has the most beautiful view. You might also see wild cattle and horses.
2. Lighthouse Point
78 km east of Ruta 3 and 9.7 km before the Lighthouse Bay campsite (below), this one actually is just beside a lighthouse, albeit the basic model.
Another fabulous spot on this very quiet road, it is best to stay up top as very boggy at the bottom. Tuck yourself behind the bushes and go down to the lighthouse to enjoy the rocky coastline.
Watch for flightless steamer ducks, cormorants and gulls; we were even lucky enough to see seals and some penguins. There are heaps of mussels on the rocks but there is a toxic disease so they cannot be eaten.
No facilities here, just the peace and quiet of the Beagle Canal. There is a fresh water stream off the road a little way down the hill.
Tip: There is an active and very elaborate beaver dam just along the road to the west.
3. Lighthouse Bay
87 km east off Ruta 3, past Estancia Harberton, you will find this flat grassy camp on a wide bay. It is about half way between an estancia and the Rio Moat above a pebbly beach which is perfect for long walks.
On a headland to the east, there is a small naval station which marks the end of the road (for now) and the start of the Mitre Peninsula, a protected area. The estancia can be seen in the other direction but hardly anyone passes on the road.
Kick back and enjoy 180° ocean and big sky views. Chile is directly opposite across the water. Dolphins are common and occasionally orcas and whales are seen; a king penguin once even took up residence on the beach whilst he moulted.
There are no facilities of any sort, although a small fresh water stream runs into the sea here.
Tip: From the naval station it is a 5 km easy walk to a lighthouse (actually a giant metal tripod with a light on top and you would be taking your life into your hands if you tried to climb the ladder!) with beautiful end of the world ocean views. You can see it in the distance from the campsite.
4. Puerto Almanza – Rio Almanza RP 30
How cool is this – not only a superb view over the Beagle Channel to the distant twinkling lights of Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino in Chile with the Dientes de Navarino mountains, but some big artillery pieces to play with!?
On RP 30 just west of Puerto Almanza, this is a pleasant stop as you head to or from Estancia Harberton. After passing the army base on the right – more artillery – and crossing the Rio Almanza bridge, this place is below the road on the left. Trucks could go for the scenic beachside spots, tents might prefer the more sheltered areas on the river below the bridge.
Either way, it is a quiet spot and has some great views and beach walks. The gun is obvious and there is another one at the side of the road above; they appear to date back to the 1950’s and are generally pointing in the Chile direction. (Funnily enough, there are some opposite on Isla Navarino pointing towards Argentina! ) .
Tip: There are lots of fishermen’s shacks selling centolla or king crab alongside the road.
5. Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego – Laguna Verde & Rio Pipo
Situated only about 12 km from Ushuaia this park is a must stop on any Tierra del Fuego itinerary, though actually very little of it is accessible and I found the coastal scenery to be more beautiful than the mountains here.
These campgrounds aren’t strictly free as entrance to the park is AR$30,000 each per day (AR$45,000 for 2 days) but once you are in, you can stay as long as you like, though it is officially 2 nights/3 days.
Space at Laguna Verde is limited for vans but if you grab a spot on the edge of the lake, it is lovely and there are nice views of the mountains. If you have a tent or bicycle and are prepared to walk in, the end peninsula area is even better. It is a lovely area to walk and look out for bird life.
Rio Pipo is more spacious and has some nice river spots, with wandering horses on our visit. Both sites have clean toilets with loo paper which are cleaned daily.
Most of the walks in the park are quite short and easy. I enjoyed the Sendero Hito XXIV track which follows the lake towards the Chilean border post; you can find some small secluded beaches en route and there is a good chance of spotting the giant Magellanic woodpeckers – the male is the one with the red head.
Tip: Mossies are fierce, bring repellent.
6. Laguna Bombilla & Lago Fagnano
This is a beautiful camping area on a large lagoon which adjoins Lago Fagnano. Access is easy on a gravel road which leaves RN 3 south of Tolhuin and just north of Lago Escondido so it is a good halfway stop between Tolhuin and Ushuaia.
The sites are scattered in a wooden area on the lagoon which is popular with fishermen and there is plenty of space for tents and trucks. There are no facilities other than basic tables and benches.
There are some nice strolls around the lagoon and onto the shores of Lago Fagnano, which stretches all the way to Chile. Walk west down the shoreline for some great mountain views.
Tip: When coming through Tolhuin, stop at La Union bakery for yummy empanadas and great pastries. Before you leave, check out the panoramic view of Lago Fagnano from its easternmost end.
7. Lago Marguerita
This beautiful lake is only 4 km south of Laguna Bombilla and a great alternative. It is popular with locals and fishermen who tend to cluster at the bottom.
If you have a vehicle that can cross the outlet river there are some prime spots but for perfect peace go to the grassy flats beside a winding river at the other end of the lake.
We liked a little niche just beyond the turnoff for the bottom which is elevated above the lake in the trees – there is only room for one so you won’t be disturbed!
It is possible to walk all the way around the lake although it is wet in places on the far side and some stepping stoning will be needed!
Tip: At the head of the lake a grassy track leads off towards Paso Tristén where there is a shelter. It would be a good day or overnight walk, or just check out the very active beaver colony in the valley.
8. Lago Yehuin
About 20 km north of Tolhuin and then 43 km west on RP18, you will find this very scenic campsite on the edge of Lago Yehuin with fabulous views over the lake to snowy mountains.
It is a strange little spot as there is also an abandoned hotel at the entrance. Camp on the lake in front of it, go around behind it for a beautiful grassy meadow and forest or drive along the edge of the lake to access some fabulous lakeside spots.
There are basic tables and benches (with fireplaces although fires are no longer allowed) but no other facilities. On a windy day the lake turns into an inland sea with waves lapping near the campsites.
The old ruined jetties are quite photogenic and at the one further away there is a memorial to 12 people who died on the lake when a boat capsized.
Tip: Check out the ruined hotel – it is a mess but there is some quite cool graffiti!
9. Cabo San Pablo
35 km north of Tolhuin, head east on RN24CA for 43 km to this lovely campsite on a dandelion strewn grassy flat with fabulous coastal views.
This one is also near an abandoned hotel which one drives in front of to access the spot. There are views out over the ocean and in the distance, the wreck of the Desdemona which was beached in 1985 as it carried cement to Ushuaia.
There are no facilities of any sort although one can walk down to the river for water if necessary.
Nearby attractions include Cabo San Pablo with its easy 2.2 km walk to a squiffy lighthouse and fabulous views over the coastline in both directions.
The Desdemona is best visited at low tide when one can walk around the whole ship. There is a hole cut in her port side but she is old and rusty and I would not recommend going inside.
Tip: On the Desdemona approach road, Silvia & Miguel sell yummy salmon and other fishy empanadas from their campsite.
10. Camping at Rio Olivia N of Ushuaia on RN 3
This is a pleasant riverside camping area with scattered trees and is just off the main RN 3, very handy for Ushuaia as only 18 km north of there, on the western side of the road. You can camp both sides of the river, a dirt track leading to the further sites away from the road, which is very quiet at night so you will not be disturbed.
It is boggy in some places so a 2WD will have a more limited choice of places – otherwise there is plenty of space for trucks and tents.
Tip: If you are determined to camp in Ushuaia, there are various parking lots in town that people seem to use. However, for a quieter spot with a great Ushuaia view, drive to the parking place at the top of the hill, on the right, just before the airport. This would be a bit exposed for tents though!
Exchange Rate: £1 = ARG 1,900
