A fisherman will get misty eyed when the Kenai Peninsula is mentioned. As well as world class sport fishing, its beautiful lakes and mountains draw the tourists whilst Kenai offers the delights of civilisation.

Driving north from Seward in the early morning, rising mist swirled like smoke between the mountains and over the lakes. It was suddenly feeling quite autumnal: the trees were yellowing and the nights were getting distinctly cooler. 

The Sterling Highway begins 90 miles south of Anchorage at the Seward Junction where it bends off towards Homer, known to the locals as the ‘Y’. Tern Lake straddles the junction and was looking golden in the early light. It is worth stopping to check out the birdlife: we saw some Trumpeter swans with goslings on one of the islands. At the picnic area there is a viewing platform where spawning salmon linger – the vivid red bodies of the Sockeye are easy to spot. 

Moose Pass

Founded in 1909 as a supply centre for gold miners, Moose Pass became an Iditarod stop in 1910-11 and then the Alaska Railway arrived in 1927.

Supposedly named after various straying moose encounters, it is a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sort of place but it does have a couple of attractions. 

As one enters town there is a sign: Moose Pass is a peaceful little town. If you have an axe to grind, do it here…

Here being an old water wheel which once supplied the town with hydro-electricity from 1928 to 1956 but was restored to turn a knife sharpening grindstone. It is currently awaiting restoration after been damaged in a flood.

The Moose Drop-in Trading Post advertises Moose Nuts but their fudge is a better bet including the amusingly named salt caramel and vanilla flavoured Moose Drool!

Cooper Landing

Ideally situated at the bottom of Kenai Lake where the Kenai River emerges, and near the intersection of the Kenai and Russian rivers, we felt we were really entering the playground of the Kenai when we hit Cooper Landing: fishing lodges, fishing charters and rafting trip signs lined the roadside. Glossy log cabins awaited the keen fisherman and Gwin’s Roadhouse provided giant omelettes to set them – and us – up for the day.

Russian River

We didn’t have a hope in hell of getting in at the campsite on Russian River – it was totally booked out by fishermen concentrating on one of the best trout rivers in Alaska.

We paid $14 for expensive day parking and followed the wide path for 2 miles to Russian River Falls. It was surrounded by dense vegetation and trees and numerous signs in the car park warned us about bears who are as equally attracted to the salmon run as the fishermen.

The falls are a long area of white water, a maelstrom of ledges and rocks that I could not envisage myself being able to negotiate – yet this was what the spawning salmon face.

They clustered in the quieter corners below the falls, dark shadows in the water; only a few seemed to be in their spawning red coats. 

All rested and gathered their strength to tackle the falls and every so often one would see a flying salmon above the rushing water. I found it incredible that any fish was capable of such a task yet apparently thousands are counted into the lake – once the optimum number has been reached, the catch limit is increased.

Watching them struggle up the falls at the end of a long life which was pretty amazing in itself, I felt I could never eat a wild salmon again – they simply didn’t deserve it!

We decided to take the scenic route back, a rough track that shadowed the river bank, climbing up where the river ran deep, sometimes following stepping stones at its edges. The vegetation grew thickly, with vivid red berries, and we found ourselves ducking under and climbing over fallen trees.

I was quite glad to see a fisherman as we were wondering if we were ever going to get out at the other end. I asked if the water were drinkable and he pointed out not only the risk of ghardia but the fact that there would be thousands of dead salmon in the lake – good point!

As we chatted I was looking downstream to where a spruce tree had fallen across the river – and I suddenly saw a black bear in the water. She disappeared on the other side of the tree but then emerged with two cubs tip toeing over the log behind her – one completely lost his balance and swung around underneath it.

They soon merged into the grasses on the other side although we later picked them up as they traversed across a scree slope higher on the mountain. The unexpectedness of the encounter made it quite magical.

Finally we reached a walkway and were able to climb back up to the car park. That night we camped at nearby Kelly Lake where the mysterious calls of loons echoed eerily across the lake.

I was reading by the lake when a porcupine suddenly walked down the trail towards me. I think he got just as much a fright as I did and scuttled off rapidly into the bush where his rustlings caused Simon to think it was a bear!

Skilak Wildlife Recreation Area

Once part of the highway, this 18 mile loop road is now an unpaved scenic detour to the south of the main highway, giving access to superb hiking, fishing and scenery, albeit some of it recovering from a fire but at least it opens up the view and makes wildlife viewing easier!

There are several camping options along it including Hidden Lake and Upper Skilak Lake which are $15 a night. I would argue that the free ones actually offer better lakeside camping, particularly at the Lower Skilak and Lower Ohmer sites.

Otherwise there are public service cabins at Engineer Lake (1 mile walk in) and Ohmer Lake (.3 mile walk in) which are really cosy with wood burning stoves and bunk beds (bring sleeping bags). These two are a bargain at only $45 a night, have superb views and even supply boats to explore the lake.

Bear Mountain Trail

On a blustery morning in autumn with the trees already golden and leaves flying down to litter the ground with a russet carpet, we set off on the Bear Mountain trail. It was only late August but the crowds had gone and we had a much quieter Kenai. It is funny in that having arrived in early June, we had experienced spring, summer and autumn in Alaska within the space of 3 months.

This easy trail is only 1.6 miles return and although it climbs quite steeply (400 feet) one is soon at a rocky lookout with great views over the cool glacial blue of Skilak Lake and the Kenai river basin.

A succession of mountains in the Kenai Range parade themselves on the other side of the lake, with snow splattered U-shaped valleys. Skilak Lake is an important refuge for all five Pacific salmon species.

Hidden Creek

This was a good walk (3 miles return) for a windy day, winding through spruce forest and dense shrub to the banks of Hidden Creek where it gathered itself behind the lake.

It was a wild place of water and tall yellow grasses with distant grey mountains – it looked very bear-y and indeed we did see some rather fresh bear scat. Red shadows in the water announced the presence of sockeye salmon which alway attract bears who are fattening up for the coming winter, so we trod very warily.

When we reached the lake we found another very desolate spot, with the wind driving the waves against the shore which was packed with fallen trees and driftwood, as well as the inevitable dead salmon. It really did feel like the end of summer with the falling leaves and fish who’d run their race.

The Swanson River Road

The Swanson River Road runs north off the Sterling Highway for only 17.5 miles yet we were drawn to spend two days in this beautiful area which is part of the Kenai National Refuge.

A good gravel road led past numerous hidden lakes, some with lyrical names: Mosquito, Silver, Forest, Weed, Drake and Skookum. Most have year round fishing for rainbow trout and dolly varden, some also have arctic char, which are more easily caught in the spring when the waters are cool. As temperatures rise, they descend to deep waters and are harder to find.

We spent our first night at Dolly Varden campsite which had lovely views over the lake and was very peaceful – one was reminded again what a true luxury silence is!

On the second day, we pootled, visiting the Swanson River whose narrow banks ran between a lonely wilderness of mud and tundra. Some silver salmon could be glimpsed in the water which ran slowly between water lilies and tall grasses. Simon braved the boggy banks and caught a couple of trout.

We drove on another 12 miles to the end of the road, which was actually put in because of the oil industry – the first oil well in Alaska was established here in 1957. Oil and gas production is still ongoing today.

However, within the wilderness area, there are other delights: the huge network of lakes provides wonderful canoeing with two popular trails: the 60 mile Swan Lake route, which connects 30 lakes and the 80 mile Swanson River route which links 40 lakes – albeit with some hefty portages between them.

It is also possible to put a canoe in at the Swanson River and head down to the Cook Inlet which is a gentle overnight option. Canoes can be rented from Alaska Canoe & RV Park at Milepost 84 on the Sterling Highway.

We explored the lakes along the road. Paddle Lake at the end was only a short walk, Nest Lake was a little further at 1.1 and provided a scenic picnic lunch spot and a wood frog sighting (the only frog in Alaska) – sometimes the little things are interesting too!

Driving out, we decided to stay at Rainbow Lake Campground which had a wonderfully scenic spot on the lake. Simon went back to the Swanson River to fish whilst I enjoyed the play of light and reflections on the water.

Later a man popped in and asked did if I had seen a Swiss motorhome; he told me that a Swiss couple come every year for a couple of weeks to go kayaking and that they camp in the very spot we had chosen. He was particularly impressed by the chocolate they bought and said he reciprocated with Wisconsin cheese (give me the chocolate anyday!).

He explained that he was moose hunting: there was a week allocated to archery hunters before rifles were allowed.

Oh good, I thought, we’ll get killed with a bow and arrow in the woods, not shot!

He went on to add that there weren’t as many moose around these days as there were too many wolves and bears (yet he’d shoot them anyway?!). Apparently our campsite quite often sees big bull moose walk through or swim across the lake. Needless to say we saw neither hide nor hair although we did actually hear one bugle which was quite a long eerie sound in the stillness of the night 

Soldotna 

Soldotna was opened to homesteading in 1947 (preference was given to WW2 veterans) but it was the building of the highway from Anchorage in the 1950’s and the discovery of oil in 1957 in the Swanson River Valley that really kick-started the area.

The name may come from the Russian for soldier or the Athabascan for stream fork, but either way Soldotna is now the main town of the Kenai Peninsula with all the delights of Walmart and Safeway.

Fishy days

Fishing is the raisin d’être of the Kenai! Anytime from mid June to mid October there are salmon available although the King salmon fishing is over as they are too rare these days – someone told us that in the 1980’s, the Kenai was packed with boats after the kings, and that even if they practiced catch and release, the salmon were caught so many times that they died anyway.

It is worth ducking into the friendly Soldotna Chamber of Commerce on the Kenai river to see the world record King salmon, caught by a local man in May, 1985, when he hooked the 97.4 lb trophy. 

If you want to try your hand at fishing, there is a handy walkway below the centre; it follows the river with steps down at intervals for access. River houses on the Kenai all having fishing ladders in their gardens!

Another area with public fishing access is Soldotna Creek Park with a 500 foot long boardwalk. Licences cost $45 a week for a non-resident – Alaskans only pay $20 a year – and can be bought in any hardware sporting type store or online.

From July 10th to July 30th, dipnetting is allowed (Alaska residents only): the anglers stand in the mouth of the Kenai River holding large nets with long handles – and the peninsula goes crazy with hundreds of people and mad traffic jams.

Check out the sportfishing section of the Fish & Games website to get the latest updates.

Kenai

If you have ever wondered why you never see any wildlife from the road, just go into the Kenai Visitor and Cultural Center. As you walk in, you will be met by a flock of assorted birds seemingly perched or flying crazily around the room. In the space behind you will find all the wildlife of Alaska, including a beluga whale – the latter may not have been stuffed but all the rest certainly were. 

In a country where every visitor centre, museum,  tourist shop, airport and even Walmart displays an assortment of taxidermy (bears seem to be the overall favourite), it is a wonder if one does see anything in the wild.

On a lighter note, there are some displays on the crafts of the Native Alaskans and a giant 600 lb. ‘snag’ – a huge pile of fishing lines and hooks which had been snagged on a tree trunk until an enormous obstruction was created in the Kenai river.

Near the visitors centre are two excellent places to eat on the Kenai: firstly the Kenai Burger Bus – not truck – which churns out beef burgers which are not only delicious but half the price that you will find elsewhere. Be prepared to wait and hope for a sunny day to eat at the picnic tables outside.

My other find was Louie’s Steak and Seafood restaurant. It looks a pretty ordinary box from the outside, but is quite cosy within and their food is good, although be warned: taxidermy is the décor du jour – we ate tasty brunch skillets under a giant elk head! 

Just down from the Burger Bus there are a few remnants of old Kenai, including a jolly Russian church from 1895, with an equally jolly blue and white rectory opposite dating from 1881. The little Chapel of St. Nicholas from 1906 it found to the rear of the area.

Take a walk to the viewpoint at the back to see where the Kenai enters the sea;  the Americans built Fort Kenay here in 1867.

Within the cluster, Veronica’s Cafe is in an old log cabin which was built in 1918 as a family home – it is known for its tasty cakes and coffee. The Russians built a fort here in 1791 as an outpost for fur and fish trading. It is also the site of the “Battle of Kenai” when the Denaina natives attacked the fort, resulting in 100 deaths on both sides.

In the footsteps of Captain Cook

The end of the road beckoned again: we turned northeast at Kenai on the Kenai Spur Road and followed it to the Captain Cook State Park, named after Captain Cook who explored what is now the Cook Inlet in 1778. 

Initially it was a rather uninteresting drive past a succession of oil well paraphernalia but it was rather lovely once we got into the park area with thick forests, lakes and streams – and a rather stunning outlook across the sea to the snow capped mountains on the other side.

Stormy Lake and the Swanson River were busy with fishermen; trout and dolly varden can be fished all year round whilst the salmon are more restricted but the August run was proving popular.

We had thought to stay at the Discovery Campground at the end of the road and indeed we had afternoon tea at their day use area in a lovely grassy clifftop setting. The sea was incredibly still and serene and it was a vividly blue sky sunny day – it was hard to think that winter wasn’t that far away.

However, we had found a better camp spot on our explorations of the road. At Bishop Creek, an easy 10 minutes walk led to a glorious campspot on the edge of the cliff and we settled in for low tide with a spreading golden sunset over the exposed flats and water.

Spawning silver (Coho) salmon were making their way up the creek as it ran out to sea between steep banks. Running the gauntlet of waiting seals, they frantically raced up the creek, tails propelling them through the water at speed.

Five bald eagles also joined in the fun, easily catching the fish in the shallow water. Sometimes a fish took a stream which was too shallow and became beached at which stage the seagulls moved in. It was quite heart rendering to watch – so near and yet so far. We even flipped a couple back that had run onto the banks. One was too weak and drifted off to seagull doom when we let him go. He was such a fine silver fish that we were tempted to put him in the car!

Later a coyote trotted past, showing no interest in the salmon. Dusk faded to night and although there was a new moon, it was a ‘black’ (invisible) one and they sky was very dark apart from the odd light from the oil derricks in the inlet. The stars later shone vividly.

NOTES