Fringed by giant pine trees and with views over the undulating countryside around the Indre river, Château d’Ussé justifies it’s fairytale reputation – so much so that it is reputed to have inspired the story of Sleeping Beauty.

How quiet France is! Sitting on the terraces with just the soft cooing of pigeons in the kinder, milder climes of September, one is surrounded by perfect peace.

Dating back to 1000, Ussé hasn’t always enjoyed such peaceful times and it was only 450 years ago that the present construction began to take shape, gathering ornamentation through the era of the Italian Renaissance and culminating in 1659 when it was bought by Louis Bernina de Valentinay, who was connected to the flamboyant court of the Sun King, Louis XlVth.

After the Revolution, Ussé was bought by the Duchess de Duras and it is her line that continues in residence to this day.

The soaring white sided castle is adorned with a multitude of circular towers, crenellations and chimneys. Spikey embellishments point to the heavens and richly carved windows add to the ethereal effect.

There is a short uphill approach from the ticket office, which crosses a dry moat to the central courtyard from where one enters the chateâu.

Inside the Chateâu

The tour starts quite flamboyantly with the colourful Guard Room which has a painted marble ceiling and exotic armour display. The tiny Indian miniatures were painted with a cat’s whisker.

Continuing through the Salon to the central gallery, there are some amusing and quite down to earth Flemish tapestries from the 17th century – I counted one which contained at least three piddling figures!

After a pretty dining room and a giant pair of postillion’s boots (designed to protect the wearer from horse kicks), a marble and wrought iron staircase wound upstairs to the King’s Chamber with it’s striking canopied bed. I don’t think the king ever visited (replica thrones are displayed in the gallery) but it is attractively furnished and throughout the rooms there is some fine Louis XVth and Boulle furniture.

Sleeping Beauty

I will admit that I had to Google the author of this famous fairytale: it was Charles Perrault who wrote the original version in 1697, adapting an earlier, darker Italian tale.

It is said he stayed in the castle and there is a cleverly designed ‘Sleeping Beauty ‘ trail which wends amongst the towers and turrets of the old keep. The story is told by a series of collages with figures and is apparently very popular with children, although there were thankfully none on our visit.

Just as interesting is the old architecture of the towers and the attic where centuries of detritus have been left to create a modern display. The intricate roof timbers must shelter bats judging by the smell!

The Chapel

Overlooked by huge cedar of Lebanon trees on wide green terraces, the area is a pleasant place to linger on a sunny day. The chapel was built between 1521 and 1538 in the French Renaissance style, although the many medallions are more Italianate with depictions of Christ and the twelve apostles and death.

Inside it is light and airy with richly carved pews. The present family still use the chapel for weddings and christenings. Nearby there are some old stables with a carriage collection and a harness room.

The Gardens

On a terrace below the house the formal gardens are a riot of red and white within fringing box hedges. There is a central fountain and great views up to the spiky white towers of the castle. The next terrace down has a more constrained kitchen garden.

On leaving the castle it is worth walking down the road a little way to the bridge by the main entrance for a wider view. It is quite a pretty spot.

In the opposite direction, from the back of the car park, it is possible to follow the riverbank towards the far end of town and return along the rather long and fairly ordinary main street. There is a simple cafe opposite the castle entrance for crepes and light meals.

NOTES

Château d’Ussé is open from February to November and costs 14.50 euros. There is plentiful free parking opposite the château.