It is impossible to avoid waterfalls in Iceland: they are everywhere, from delicate diaphanous veils that fall from cliff faces to thundering glacial torrents. Here are some of my off-the-beaten-track favourites.

GLUGGAFOSS
South Iceland.

63°33′29.06″N 19°29′31.74″W

This is on the beautiful valley road Route 261 which branches off at Hvolsvöllur and leads to Fljótshlíð, just north of the southern ring road and 30 km east of Hella. Under the brooding presence of the Eyjafjallanökull glacier, this narrow waterfall is well worth seeking out.

It is rather fun as it has no less than 3 windows or arches caused by the water eroding the soft tuff rock. Stand underneath it for the full effect; the force of water in the bottom opening is so strong that it emerges in a horizontal spray.

Just below the main waterfall there is a wider but shallower fall. It is possible to go behind it slightly and there is a great view of the glacier through the falling waters – or climb steeply up the hillside to see it from the top.

It is an easy 5 minute walk from the free carpark. Nearby is Seljalandsfoss (a magnificent water fall that you can walk behind) and, 500m beyond, Gljúfurárbui in a narrow enclosed canyon – these two are unfortunately on every tourists radar, but well worth visiting.

STJÓRNAFOSS
Kirkjubaejarklaustur

63°47′57.74″N 18°03′43.2″W

The charming Kleifar campsite lies just to the east of Kirkjubaejarklaustur, nestled under the overhanging mountains.

This waterfall lies to the rear of the campsite where lucky tent campers can get a prime view.

It has an unusual criss-cross cascade which drops into a beautifully clear pool. The campsite claims it gets the sun and is warm enough for swimming in the summer, but I wouldn’t be brave enough.

There are great views and walks in the hills above the area.

SWARTIFOSS
Skaftafell National Park

64°01′39.05″N 16°58′31.44″W

Found in the Skaftafell National Park under the beautiful Vatnajökull glacier, this waterfall is reached in 1.9 km of gentle uphill walking. The approach path winds through low birch trees, which are always a pleasure to see in a rather treeless Iceland.

It is surrounded by basalt columns which create a black amphitheatre, framing its cascade as it drops into a pool edged by broken fragments. Further down, large sections lie fallen like a ransacked temple.

To complete the walk, cut over to Sjónarnípa from where there is a superb view over Skaftafellsjökull, one of the tongues of the Vatnajökull glacier.

There is an excellent campsite at the park or lodgings about 5 km away at Freysnes.

SKÚTAFOSS
Höfn

64°20′32.18″N 14°56′50.94″W

There is a series of three waterfalls in this beautiful valley on the ring road 22 km east of Höfn.

The first waterfall one sees walking up the valley is Fremstifoss and the third is Innstifoss, but it is the middle of the three, Skútafoss, which is the most striking.

It falls some 10 m onto a mossy outcrop. There is a cave hollowed out to one side with a large overhang and another small waterfall falls a few metres along to the other side in a fine spray.

The gentle walk up the valley is stunning: a cirque hangs high over head and the great masses of smoothed rock show the power of the extinct glacier that shaped the valley.

Go to where it narrows and you will likely have the place to yourself, bar a few shaggy sheep and the sound of rushing waters. The mosses and grass grow richly between the stony course of the river and the jagged silhouette of the mountains is awe inspiring.

Returning with the sea directly ahead, you can enjoy the abstract swirls of black sand in the lagoon.

KLIFBREKKUFOSSAR
Mjóifjörður, East Fjords

65°10′46.2″N 14°04′53.62″W

This waterfall originates high on the hill and falls in many tiers. If you walk right to the top, there is an interesting raised seam in the rock which has turned the stream so that it runs along its base, before finding a gap.

The main fall is reached from the gravel road which drops down to Mjóifjörður. There is parking near a picnic table on a bend and a short walk across the moorland leads to the cascade.

By September, it is a prime blueberry spot and the views over the fjord on the way down are super. Another waterfall just below falls into a narrow canyon which is reputedly haunted.

There are rooms, camping and food at the little settlement on the fjord. En route there is the wreck of an old landing craft and beyond, a scenic road leads out to the east coast and two lighthouses.

THE WATERFALL WAY
Skogar, South Iceland

63°31′54.96″N 19°30′42.02″W

Skógafoss is a giant 60 m waterfall that is wonderfully symmetrical and easily accessible to the hoards – although the stiff staircase to the top sorts a few out.

However, if you love waterfalls and stunning scenery, the Waterfall Way is the one walk I would recommend. Take a day, take a picnic and lots of nibbles, this is one walk you don’t want to rush – the difficulty will be deciding at which waterfall to stop!

From Skógafoss, the path winds up along the rugged Skógá river canyon where there are no less than 24 waterfalls. All are beautiful although they vary in size and form. Some thunder furiously towards you, others disappear into deep mossy canyons. Any of them would be worth a detour in their own right and there can be few places in the world where such a stunning array follows in quick succession.

After 8 km a footbridge is reached and this will probably be far enough for day walkers, who simply reverse their steps.

To proceed further you are getting into the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, a wonderful route which crosses a pass between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers before dropping into the lovely valley of Thórsmörk.

It can be done as a stiff day walk or there are 2 huts near the pass for camping or sleeping. If one chooses the slightly harder route from the footbridge to the Fimmvörðuhskáli hut, the path stays beside the Skógar river – with more waterfalls! The easiest route, following a rough road, leads to the Baldvinskáli Hut after 5 km.