It is walking like nowhere on earth, at the very ends of the earth. It is gnarly, unsigned and challenging – but the wilderness and views on the Mitre Peninsula at the very tip of Tierra del Fuego are unique. Be prepared to get very, very muddy….

We hit an early obstacle. Having reached the end of the road at Moat and loaded up our backpacks, we paused to say hello at the naval prefecture, explaining that we wanted to hike on the Mitre Peninsula for four days.

“Do you have permission from the National Parks?”

‘Er… No..”

Luckily the friendly guard gave us his WiFi code and we were able to fill the 4 page form out online there and then – at least for the moment, there is no entry fee. We were emailed confirmation instantly and 40 minutes later we were off, initially skirting the beach towards the first visible lighthouse, 5 km away.

Where two lagoons met behind the beach we tiptoed over strategically placed driftwood and followed the higher ATV track, getting our first taste of the extensive bogs of the area where it is like walking on a sponge and water springs out at each step.

The lighthouse appellation is hardly justified as it is really just a metal tripod with a light on the top and a broken, rusted ladder, but it does offer a scenic view over the Beagle. It is also a popular day walk from Moat, about 3 hours return and no permission needed.

To Casa Veija..

We swung down below it to a wild pebble beach where some locals were fishing and soon encountered another obstacle: the Rio Chico which wasn’t so chico after days of heavy rain. The water rushed down in a peaty brown torrent to meet the waves coming in.

We decided it was just about OK so donned Crocs, linked arms and set off. We got to the other side in some sort of clumsy fashion and wondered whether we had been stupid to risk it or not.

Our trousers dried off rapidly and we stopped for a beach lunch. Geese and sooty oyster catchers took to the air and wild horses scattered at our approach although I suspect they belonged to someone. We continued, skirting lagoons and had one more, quieter, river crossing.

On the headland before Campamento la Viga we paused. Dolphins played in the waves below as a cruise ship entered the Beagle.

We cut through some trees, passing a basic tucked away campsite with a seat that looked like part of an old boat. Just below there was a grassy knoll, marked by a hanging buoy (and a whiskey bottle) – it had a great view of the bay and I suspect it was an old native (Yagan) shell midden, judging by the shells falling out of the turf.

We would happily have stopped there but thought if we wanted to get to Cabo San Pío the next day that we had better get to Casa Veija this one.

It was about another 5 km which didn’t sound too bad. We started off following the edge of a lagoon on big rough cobbles until we climbed a hill at the end. However, we then made the mistake of following the inland ATV track which was an absolute nightmare as the track was a total bog which was just impossible to avoid.

We slipped and slithered in sometimes calf deep mud. Simon had sensibly worn gaiters but I emerged at the end looking like a bog monster. A final couple of kilometres led through some wind tortured trees until finally we skirted a bare hillside (with no less than two dead cows!) and emerged at a fine bay.

The outpost here was once know as Puerto Rancho, but now more commonly as Casa Veija. This wasn’t quite so fine, tacked together with increments of metal with a derelict wooden workshop to one end and rapidly disappearing fencing. Outlines on the turf suggested there may once have been other buildings.

However, it was watertight and had a wood burning stove which worked so I was able to wash some of the mud off and warm up. There were a couple of basic beds but the old mattresses and bedding were filthy so we preferred to sleep in the tent that night.

It was a wise choice as we were later joined by four friendly Argentinians who had no such qualms about sleeping inside. They cranked the wood burning stove up and happily slept two to a bed whilst we retired to the tent.

To Cabo San Pío..

Our second day on the Mitre dawned fairly brightly with drizzle and sun. After our exertions of the previous day, we abandoned the idea of the 8 km walk to Cabo San Pío, the southernmost point in Argentina and instead settled for the 3 km walk to Cabo San Pío lighthouse, on a rather closer headland – this is the most southerly lighthouse in Argentina. Built in 1919 and 8 metres high, it marks the eastern most entrance to the Beagle Channel.

Even this threw in a good 2 hour climb up, over and down a nearby hill to access it – and the inevitable bogs – but it was quite a cute red and white stone version in an unusual bowling pin shape, standing on some rugged cliffs with deeply indented bays. A plaque mentioned 1913 and some names whom we suspect were probably the one time residents of Puerto Rancho.

It looked quite neglected and sadly not in the best shape. The remains of an exterior platform and ladder ringed the top, the rest lay on the ground and the ragged brickwork made one think that it might soon just be a heap of rubble. The door was missing and one wondered how it was kept burning in the old days.

After a welcome lunch we slogged back through the reeds and wet to enjoy a lazy afternoon in the quietness of the bay. Huge stands of kelp floated around the rocks and the waves ceaselessly rattled the pebble shore. Oyster catchers whistled their warning and black and white cormorants stood to attention on the rocks – it was all rather idyllic.

Walking back..

Early the next day we explored the coastline immediately along from our bay, dodging boggy bits between headlands to end at a raised cliff above a little bay in about an hour. It was a pretty coastal walk with only a scattered horse herd for company.

We finally left Casa Veija an hour and a half after low tide but it was enough to allow us to take the beach route. Although the soft pebbles and corals were not easy to walk on, we only had to remind ourselves of the alternative!

After about an hour, just past a little waterfall, we came to a headland which was impassable. A steep track led up a gully to the land above and we stopped for a very welcome afternoon tea.

Now we followed horse trails along the cliff’s edge as the kelp festooned rocks gleamed blackly below, resting places for guillemots, gulls and cormorants. Four hikers passed us going to Casa Veija and were happy to hear that it was empty when we left.

A final deep bank of shingle, separating the bay from a lagoon, had to be crossed before we climbed back up to the Campamento La Viga knoll where we pitched our tent.

That night, sitting on the native midden, I was enjoying the beautiful view up the coastline to the distant Casa Veija hill when a whale blew in the waters of the bay.

We followed the large black body and fin gliding through the water for some time before it disappeared. The wind blew loudly in intermittent gusts through the trees above us, the branches waving wildly, but we were quite sheltered.

And out..

Our fourth and final day: walking back out to Moat, following the cliff tops closely to avoid the worst of the bogs although the heavy shingle when it came was also difficult with heavy backpacks.

It was windy, with the wind blowing in our faces to make the going even harder and the waters of the Beagle frothed turbulently, although in true Patagonian style we had both dark clouds and sunny spaces.

After 1½ hours we came to Rancho De Paty, another ramshackle shed with a filthy bed and a wood burner. There was an ensuite loo of sorts in the lean-to and a dead horse in the corral.

We headed on along the beach to Rio Chico which had slightly diminished in size although it was no less cold. At low tide, we were able to skirt the edges as they hit the beach and had a thankfully smooth crossing. Our toes glowed pink afterwards.

Following the coast up the hill, we reached the old lighthouse and ate lunch in a sheltered spot nearby, looking all the way back along the peninsula to Casa Veija.

We decided it had all been quite fun, although I was quite glad we were not going on, given the challenging terrain, especially with backpacks, and the fact that one would have to retrace one’s steps – I certainly cannot imagine doing a 300 km trek around the whole extent of it!

We tiptoed through the last of the bogs back to the beach edges and shadowed them to an old corral and a final sharp incline back to the naval prefecture where the friendly guards asked us how it had gone

.”It was great! Out of this world!” I smiled.

I lingered briefly to pick up their WiFi and then headed for the car.

NOTES

The Mitre was declared a protected area in 2022 and covers approximately 10,419 km². It is free to enter.

The Mitre Peninsula is most easily accessed from the end of the road at Moat. It is a 3 hour, 130 km drive from Ushuaia, although it is a beautiful one along the Beagle Channel with lots of great wild camping en route. Check out iOverlander for the best spots.

We used Tiger Rental cars, which worked out at about £25 a day. There is plenty of free, safe parking beside the road at Moat.

It is necessary to fill out a 4 page form before entering the reserve. A rough itinerary should be included and where you will be staying, as well as usual contact details. The email confirmation is instantly sent to you and nothing further is required – you can go in for as long as you like and you don’t have to sign out at the end. There are a few who have been known to walk all the 300 km plus coastline – allow 40-60 days!

There is a naval prefecture at the entrance who will check you have filled it in and make a note of your passports and car number if applicable. They kindly gave us their WiFi code when we hadn’t done it, so we were able to do it on the spot!

No open fires allowed.

Make a note of tide times for river crossings so you don’t get trapped between sea and cliffs when walking on the shore. River crossings are also easier at low tide

Expect every type of possible weather, and that on the cooler side. Waterproof boots and gaiters are strongly recommended!

The blurb suggests a satellite phone or radio. We only had an EPIRB.

I couldn’t find a decent map (and there certainly wasn’t a proper trail map) but it wasn’t too important for the little we did. After all, you are basically following the coastline and if all else fails, the ATV track! There are other people out there too and even one lone gaucho living at Julían.

If you do want a map Avenza is one possibility or the Wikiloc App for suggested routes and waypoints. After Campamento la Vigna DO NOT FOLLOW THE ATV TRACK, but stick to the cliffs and the shore. The latter section is still largely passable at high tide but you will have to leave it via an obvious track just before Casa Veija to get around the final headland.

The preferred route seems to be as follows:

Day 1. Moat to Casa Veija 16 km (6 hours)
Day 2. Casa Veija to Puesto Ibarra 9 km (4 hours)
Day 3. Puesto Ibarra to Sloggett Bay/Rancho Julían 15 km (6 hours)
Day 4. Rancho Julían to Playa Dorada 14 km (6 hours)
Day 5. Playa Dorada to Playa Paraiso 10 km (5 hours)
Day 6. Playa Paraiso to Aguirre Bay/Puerto Español 15 km (7 hours)

After Aguirre Bay, it seems to be pretty much uncharted and you are on your own!

Cabo San Pío lighthouse would be a detour on Day 2 of about 3 km return from the ATV track, although I saw a local heading towards Puerto Ibarra from the lighthouse by taking a track up to the right on the headland above – look for the pole on the cliff side. As we did not venture beyond there, I cannot suggest the best route.

Other points of interest include the most southerly point in Argentina at Cabo San Pío, an old gold dredger from 1907 and a Polish wreck called the Nasachata from 2010 at Sloggett Bay (2 of the 7 crew died when they were washed overboard), as well as the historic ranch outposts, Ibarra, Julían and Puerto Español being the more comfortable.

There are many guided tours available including the following. Many seem to take 3 days to Sloggett Bay, have a rest day and then return. Don’t expect much change from US$1,500-2,500!

Another option is to walk to Aguirre Bay and then get a sailboat back, which is a nice idea as you are not having to retrace your steps.There is also the option of approaching the Mitre from the north at Estancia María Luisa (230 km from Ushuaia), with a 10 day loop walk or a horseback trip – this would include the eastern most point in Argentina at Cabo San Diego.

There are plans afoot to extend the road from Moat to Cabo San Pío – go now before the hoards arrive!