One of the most interesting ferry routes in the world travels through the fjords of Patagonia, in southern Chile. The three night trip from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales – or vice-versa – has beautiful scenery with a chance to spot some of the elusive wildlife and birds of this remote region.

 

People often think travel is difficult but in fact it is all too easy. Half an hour on the internet, taking some wild guesses at the Spanish translation, and some three months later we are standing on a dock in Puerto Montt, Chile, about to board a Navigmag ferry for the far south of Patagonia.

The Eden is not a pretty boat but then she is not meant to be. Built in France 33 years ago as a Corsican car ferry, she is a workhorse, now doing the approximately 1,100 km freight run between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales in Chile. The ferry leaves on a Friday for the 3 night, 4 day trip so providing a vital link beyond the end of the Carretera Australis road, whilst avoiding Argentina.

At some stage some bright spark must have had the great idea of opening it up for tourists, or maybe it just came to the backpackers attention as a cheap cruise through the Patagonian fjords. Luxury it isn’t , but who’s complaining when a berth starts at a little over £250 full board? Certainly not the majority of the foreign travelers who made up three quarters of the passengers.

Day One

We were informed that check in was between 9.30 and 12.30 am at the Holiday Inn on the sea front of Puerto Montt. We duly turned up and left our luggage, then prepared to kick our heels for the day. The 4 pm sailing was now leaving at 8 pm and we were free until the bus transfer at 4.45pm.

Puerto Montt has a stunning location with a wide esplanade over a beautiful  expanse of ocean, with snow capped mountains and volcanoes on the distant skyline. However, it is a fairly unattractive city and there is little to do once one has admired the view.

Luckily the Holiday Inn has a lovely lounge area with free coffee and wifi on the 11th floor, plus the benefit of a sweeping ocean view – seals were frolicking below us – and it was a pleasant spot to while away the day.

Added to which, it sits over a good shopping centre where you can easily find lunch, nibbles and seasick tablets for the voyage – unbelievably we found Waitrose chocolate and it was the cheapest option, so we stocked up.

The bus finally took us the 15 km to Chinquehue, where our functional drive-on ferry awaited. Our first wildlife viewing was seen before we even left the bus : a couple of South American sea lions spreadeagled over the large, round, bright orange buoys to which the boat was tethered.

We walked on past heavily laden lorries then struggled up steep and narrow stairs to where our cabins were allocated (backpacks useful here!) . We had decided on the 4 berth option, with two bunks and shared bathrooms in the corridor outside.  Ours didn’t have a window but there was a lounge area and a dining room, as well as large expanses of rather chilly deck.

Uprooting the seals, we headed gently out to sea. Although in bright sunshine, there were ominous dark clouds ahead and we could not see the distinctive snowy cones of the Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes.   The rugged landscape of mainland Chile was clearly visible as the ship set out on its southern course. Following the inner channels, for the time being smooth sailing was assured.

There were two sittings for dinner, divided on odd and even cabins.  Food was plentiful and filling: soup, salad, salmon and rice, fruit and fruit juices. Large round tables gave one a chance to meet fellow travelers: most people were heading off to do the Torres del Paine trekking routes.

Afterwards there was a talk, first in Spanish then in English, on our intended route south through the open seas and narrow channels. Great views and marine wildlife viewing were possible, and as the dark shadows of Chiloe slipped away on our right, we went to bed.

Day Two

We had an undisturbed night’s sleep and arose at 7 with anticipation. Unfortunately the day was damp and gray with no view whatsoever, so we settled down in sofas by the windows to await the 8.30 breakfast.

Later on there was a lecture, in English then Spanish, on the fauna of the area and the birds we were likely to see. The chain of volcanoes on mainland Chile was never visible but we did see albatross, with their hard streamlined shape cutting through the sky. Seals would show an inquisitive head then disappear again.

One problem on the boat is that unless you stand out on the deck spaces, you actually see very little. There are only two small windows on one side of the lounge and they are blurry with sea mist. So warm, windproof clothing is essential.

The captain has the best view from the bridge and a windscreen wiper to boot. We were invited up in the morning to take a look around which was quite interesting with all its radar screens and implements. Two phones were labeled ‘wales’ and ‘dolphins ‘ – I think they meant whales as I don’t think the other would be much use!

The day continued grey as we sailed down the Molaleda Canal: standing outside was like being in the middle of a black and white movie, all colour leached from the landscape leaving only a multitude of grey tones.

We returned to the bridge later in the day as the boat navigated the Pelluche Channel towards the Pacific Ocean, minute spoken adjustments from the captain to his navigator taking us smoothly along.

We didn’t actually reach open water until 8pm – giving us just enough time to have an early supper and get to bed before the rough sailing started.

Day Three

Day three dawned much as day two: 11°, grey with low cloud. The incessant rocking of the boat as we sailed south through the Pacific into the Gulfo de Penas meant we hadn’t slept that well and when I arrived on deck at 7.30, I discovered that we had missed an appearance by some whales an hour before.  They are relatively common here in the calmer waters.

At least now we were back to smooth sailing in the Canal Messier. Scattered islands loomed in the mist, with the occasional small waterfalls . Our morning talk on the local flora informed us that we were entering a tundra type zone, with stunted beech trees on the lower slopes and hardy grasses.

Our talk was interrupted by the wreck of the Captaine Leonidas coming into sight on Cotopaxi rock. The crew had tried to sink it as part of an insurance scam, but only succeeded in lodging it on the rock. Still surprisingly intact, apart from a few holes courtesy of the Chilean navy, 50 years later it is an example of how nature regenerates, with small bushes growing on its rusty decks.

After lunch, we passed through another narrow strait, the Angostura Inglesa, or English channel, and arrived at Puerto Eden, the only stop and village en route, with some 60 inhabitants. We moored offshore and little motor boats came to load and unload by the back ramp. The village nestled around a small bay under jumbled rocky mountains , an untidy assortment of low colorful houses. I couldn’t imagine living somewhere so remote. Children go to Puerto Natales for schooling and many now choose to make their lives elsewhere.

Our intrusion into such peaceful lives only lasted about half an hour and we were off again, through another dramatically narrow area with the rugged sides almost brushing the boat.

That evening we had a final talk about the Torres del Paine park and what to expect on a visit there. It all looked rather beautiful in the sunlit photos , but one wonders how common it is after the last few days!

Day Three

Our lecturer woke us up at 6 am for the scenic bit and a small glacier; I think he only bothered as it was the last day as the weather was still grim and there was no prospect of a sunrise.  Mountains loomed up with slick grey rocky sides, stunted trees in sheltered pockets; low cloud blanketed the heights and there was a steady drizzle and a strong wind. We passed a scattering of little picturesque islands and swung north for the final approach to Puerto Natales.

The channel widened out and we saw our first house then the town clustered round a sheltered bay – not sheltered enough unfortunately as we were told it was too windy to dock at that moment.

I had thought the trip to be longer than it was, as my booking said a 4 pm arrival and I thought it would be later still as we had departed late. However, we actually reached Puerto Natales at 10.30 am, though we did not finally get docked until 2.00.

Back on Dry Land

Except it wasn’t: it was pissing down in Puerto Natales! We turned to look back at the ship for a final time; it had been an interesting trip and good value, though the weather had been disappointing. However, we had still had beautiful, atmospheric views and it certainly beat sitting on a bus.

Equally, I don’t think one can depend on seeing a huge amount of wildlife . And if at times it looked just like Scotland, that is beside the point : we were in deepest Patagonia and lucky enough to have just sailed through some of the remotest country in the world.

The crew were cheerful and friendly,  the lecturer was informative and amusing, the captain dryly laconic; the food was good enough and the beds were comfortable. If you have the time and money to spare, it is well worth it,

 

  Exchange Rate: £1 = 850 CHP