The Best Drives in Patagonia, Chile/Argentina (January 2018)

There are very many beautiful areas of Patagonia and a car allows you to explore at leisure and stop where you like. The following are some of our favorite drives from a recent 3 month trip to Chile and Argentina.

 

RP 23 – West from Rt 40 to El Chalten, Argentina

Heading North on Ruta 40

Turning west off Rt 40, it is about 80 km on RP 23 to El Chalten. The azure expanse of Lago Viedma follows the road to the south, with a backdrop of snow capped mountains. Glacier Viedma, the largest in Argentina, can be glimpsed sliding down to the lake, so there are often icebergs floating in it.

Views on the RP 23

To the north, more hills and escarpments and some abandoned farms along the roadside; the sun is really needed to bring out the colors in these rather austere slopes.

Fitzroy Ahead!

However it is the view to the west that makes this route really special. The Fitzroy Massif rises directly in front of you, with the chunky granite monolith of Fitzroy easily recognizable at a height of 3,405m. Cerro Torre (3,102m) can be seen as a narrower spire to the left and there are many lesser surrounding peaks. At sunrise, weather permitting, they have a spectacular fiery glow, but sunset can be just as dramatic, outlining their silhouettes against the sky.

Getting Closer to Fitzroy

All are magnets to climbers and hikers who enjoy the cool town of  El Chalten which nestles in a bend of the Las Vueltas river at their base. It is a very beautiful area. The road continues up the river valley to end in 37 km at Lago Del Desierto, another lovely drive.

On the Desierto Road

Y 85 / CH 257 Pampa Guanaco South to the End of the Road, Chile

Cameron

If you only visited the northern half of Chilean Tierra del Fuego, you might find the undulating landscape rather dry and desolate, but persevere. From Cameron, things improve and heading east to Pampa Guanaco trees start to appear and the snowy mountains of the Cordillera Darwin can be seen to the south.

Near Cameron

This is a world renowned fly fishing area and there are some exclusive fishing lodges around the pretty Rio Grande with its old bridge and the beautiful Lago Blanco. The latter also has wild camping.

Dropping Down to Lago Blanco

 

Lago Blanco

Soon after leaving Pampa Guanaco, you reach Vicuna, with its old twin towered house. Though only tin clad it manages to look quite majestic, though it is now sadly abandoned.

Vicuna

The country becomes wilder, with big vistas of rolling plains and mountains, separated by river valleys where guanacos graze. Passing the Karukinka eco lodge and campsite, there is a steady climb to the Mirador above Lago Deseado. From here there are fabulous views over wide valleys and spiky peaks, the lake a sinuous silver gleam amidst the trees below.

Views on the Way

Another climb from Deseado brings you through the snow line, then there is a multi hairpin drop down to the next valley and the run down to the bridge at Lago Fagnano. A right turn here will take you west to the ‘end of the road’ at the tiny one house settlement of Caleta Maria, on a small stoney bay with the remains of an old jetty and picturesque hanging glaciers above its fjord like inlet.

Dropping Down to Lago Fagnano

 

Road to Caleta Maria

Otherwise go straight on at the bridge and see where you end up: the road is in the process of being pushed through to Yendegaia on the Beagle Channel and is advancing all the time. Either way, you will be rewarded with some of the most stunning scenery in Patagonia.

Road’s End at Caleta Maria

(Note: petrol only available at Porvenir, Russfin and Cerro Sombrero).

Proposed Extension of the Road

RN 40 – La Ruta de los Siete Lagos (Seven Lakes Route)

Villa la Angostura to San Martin de los Andes, Argentina

Follow in Che Guevara’s footsteps on this scenic 110 km drive south from St Martin de los Andes to Villa la Angostura, from where you can continue round Lago Nahuel Huapi to Bariloche.

San Martin de los Andes

San Martin is a smart little town with its own colourful beach on Lago Lacar. Following the iconic RN 40, you wend uphill into a landscape of rolling hills and icy rivers, with glimpses of forested waters. The lakes vary with some being inaccessible while Falkner has a nice sandy beach near the road. Opposite on Lago Villarino, there is beautiful free camping.

Lago Villarino

Lago Traful is one of the more attractive, with stunning campsites to the tips on both western arms. It is worth detouring down the lovely wooded valley to Villa Traful, a pretty village right on the lake with lots of nice accommodation options.

Lago Espejo

The main road continues past Lago Correntoso then Lago Espejo Chico is down a 2km track to the west, with a beach, camping and a nice mountain outlook. There are lots of places to stop and admire the views en route.

Geese and Goslings

The road ends in the charming town of Villa la Angostura which is a nicer, more peaceful stop than Bariloche with lodging possibilities and a good assortment of cafes and restaurants.

Info Board en Route

The drive on to Bariloche also gives wonderful views over the huge, very blue Lago Nahuel Huapi.

Nahuel Huapi

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