My No. 1 Sydney Walk
Sydney, NSW, Australia. January 2017.
A favourite Sydney walk combined with a visit to the Poolside Cafe at the Andrew (Boy) Charlton pool
When visiting Sydney, we always stay in the buzzy enclave of Potts Point. This great walk encapsulates all the things I love about Sydney, as well as its iconic landmarks, and it is a superb introduction for a first time visitor.
From Potts Point, take the McElhone steps down to Wooloomooloo. This old sandstone stairway was built in 1870 and there is a stunning view of the downtown area from its top step – the first of 112 which today are a popular test amongst fitness fanatics.
The steps ascend quickly to Wooloomooloo, with the naval shipyard ahead; there is often a ship of some sort in dock. On our last visit, there were two aircraft carriers. Many sailors have ascended the stairs to enjoy the shady delights of Kings Cross, adjacent to Potts Point.
Bearing left round the harbour, you soon pass the famous Harry de Wheels pie kiosk, which I always think is very over rated. The 5 star Hotel Ovalo Wooloomooloo (www.Ovolohotels.com.au) occupies an old wharf building to the right on Finger Wharf and on our visit the large interior and exterior space was being used to showcase an art exhibition. Russell Crowe is reputed to have an apartment here.
It is worth walking down the length of Finger Wharf to admire the many beautiful yachts berthed there. At the end, you will get a bird’s eye view of the Australian navy.
Retrace your steps and continue on round with the water to the right. As the boardwalks end, there are some steep sandstone steps to the left. On ascending these, the path continues on above the water at a higher elevation. Andrew (Boy) Charlton pool soon appears on the right, named after a local lad who won a gold medal in the freestyle at the 1924 Paris Olympics; the locals just refer to it as the ABC pool.
This 50 m salt water open-air swimming pool has a super café (www.poolsidecafe.com.au), perched high above the pool. It has an open terrace with umbrellas or an undercover area for more shade, though still open sided and airy. It is a great spot for people watching. Look back the way you have come to see the apartments of Potts Point; the area was one of the first to go in for high rise living in the 1920’s and now has the best Art Deco architecture collection in Australia, aa well as some of Sydney’s most expensive real estate.
There are breakfast, brunch or lunch options, but we last visited for lunch. My husband had crispy beer battered fish and chips ($23) which he rated highly while i opted for the barramundi ($29), beautifully presented on a bed of tasty slow roasted tomatoes, asparagus and salsa verde. There are lighter choices or you could just stop for a shake or coffee, but either way the food is good, the views are great and you will see some real Sydney life.
Fortified by a good lunch, continue on, the views opening up into the harbour, silver highlights dancing on blue waters on a sunny day and the Moreton Bay fig trees shading the path.
Past Lady MacQuarie’s stone chair, a jutting headland is reached and suddenly the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House are in full breath taking view. I can quite happily curl up under one of the big trees for the afternoon, watching the comings and going of the Harbour, interrupted only by the Asian tour groups who arrive by bus.
The walk continues alongside the water and through the Botanical Gardens. It is tempting to detour here to explore further and indeed there is a nice cafe (www.botanicrestaurant.com.au) here too. Otherwise, the walk swings back on itself again and turns a final corner to the Opera House and a close up view of the Bridge. Circular Quay with its public transport network is then only about 5 minutes further on.
Bonne promenade, as the French say.