The Golden Circle is an introduction to some of the varied delights of Iceland on a mini road trip. Whether you drive a circle or drive straight through, there are three major sights which shouldn’t be missed. 

The Golden Circle is the popular tourist route that includes Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir Geothermal Area and Gullfoss waterfall. 

It is an easy day trip from Reykjavik or the airport, so if time is limited this is the popular option. It offers a variety of beautiful natural sights and the place of the original Icelandic parliament. 

Thingvellir

I liked Thingvellir – it is a fascinating and very scenic geological site with a bit of political history thrown in, so justly deserving of its UNESCO status.

It is of more interest to Icelandic people for being the site of their first assemblies that segued into a parliament. A breakdown in law and order led to Norway taking over in 1271, although it stuttered on as a courtroom until completely dissolved in 1798.

It regained its powers in 1843 when it was moved to Reykjavik. Iceland now claims to have the world’s oldest parliament, which given the various disruptions is arguable – I speak as someone living in the Isle of Man where there has been an unbroken parliament since 977!

Today it is possible to see the Lögberg where the parliament convened annually until the speakers’ site was moved higher up the site – today this is marked by the Icelandic flag. There are also foundations from their temporary camps.

Of equal interest to us, it is the only place in the world where it is possible to see two major tectonic plates drifting apart above sea level. The main walk follows the line of the North American plate; on the other side of the valley is the Eurasian plate. 

It is a fascinating walk along the great rift where the wall looms above with a pretty waterfall and pool. The other side is about 5 km away. There is good hiking in the area – we did a 10 km circuit that covered all the major sights, eventually leading through pleasant countryside to Skógarkot, an old farmstead on an elevated knoll. Great fissures split the ground about us.

If you want to explore the fissures from underwater, there is a popular diving spot at Silfra, although you do need to be a qualified cold water diver to take part. Otherwise there is a snorkeling option. It is stupidly expensive but the water is crystal clear with visibility up to 100 m and the tours seem very popular. As the water is only just above freezing, complete dry suits are supplied.

There are some lovely centrally located campgrounds, including a very scenic walk in option at Vatnskot if you are prepared to to leave the car in the parking area. The lakeside is very beautiful, but does have an active fly population. There is good bird watching too – we saw some northern divers on our visit.

We stayed at the lower section of the northern campsite which was very spacious with nice views over the rift wall and good hot showers. There is a cafe and information section on the main road between the two campsite areas. 

Laugarvatn

28 km on from Thingvellir, there is the hamlet of Laugarvatn, little more than a cluster of hotels that looks as if designed with tourists in mind. 

Also designed with tourists in mind are the Fontana geothermal baths, overlooking Lake Laugarvatn with smart boulder ringed hot pots and an infinity pool.  Entry is 4,900 kr or you could stroll 50 m across the road to the town pool and have the same experience without the view for 1000 kr.

Needless to say, it is busy and the cafe is popular: a bowl of vegetable soup and a slice of bread costs 2,200 kr or smoked trout on an open rye bread sandwich is 1,200 kr. 

It is worth walking beyond the pool to the lakeside area where the geothermal activity is most active. There is a hot outflow into the lake – swim if you dare, it’s quite warm close to shore – and the conical mounds of black sand mark bread baking spots.

To the other side of the baths there is a little pool in a lawn which is supposed to be the one mentioned in the Kristin saga, a medieval account of the conversion of Iceland at the Althing in the year 1000.

The 6 adjacent rocks were once used to rest the coffins of the Bishop Jón Arason of Holar and his 2 sons after they were beheaded at Skálholt in 1550. The third son was taking the bodies back to Hólar for burial after they were beheaded for opposing Lutheranism and Danish rule.

Geysir

A famous hot spring in the Haukadalur Valley geothermal area, the eponymous Geysir, after whom all geysirs are named, seldom erupts anymore.

However, the nearby Strokkur spouts 15-20 meters of water every 10 minutes – be careful where you stand or you might get an unexpected hot shower.

That said, one needs to stand on the wetter side for the best view. There is a great sense of anticipation as the pool boils and troubles, until a huge pimple comes to the surface where it finally erupts. It is surprisingly mesmeric! 

There are also numerous colored hot pools in the area along the path. A hike up the nearby mountains (an easy 20 minutes to the top), will reward with picturesque views of farmland and a distant grandstand view of Strokkur erupting.

Parking is free and entry is free. There is a huge shopping centre and cafes and restaurants, as well as a pleasantly leafy campsite – it wouldn’t be a bad place to stay as one could wander into the site anytime and avoid the daytime tourist hoards. 

Gullfoss

The third of the three great sights, this is one of the most popular and photographed waterfalls in Iceland. It is fed by Langjökull, Iceland’s second biggest glacier.

It has a unique V shape, the water tumbling down in a powerful tumult of flying spray. It falls 30 m into a steep canyon and apparently generates lots of rainbows. 

There were no rainbows on the day we visited. Instead there was a howling gale which left us clinging to each other and the rails for support. There are two levels to the falls with parking at both and an interlinking staircase – both are equally impressive.

The lower level gets you up close and personal – and very wet on a windy day – but there is a great view of the water tipping into the canyon in a mist of spray. 

The upper level has a bird’s eye view over the falls and there is a large shopping area. 

Faxi

Windblown beyond recognition, we gave up and headed to Faxi where we camped on the river above a beautiful waterfall.

It is appropriately named as fax means horse’s mane in Icelandic: the waters fall evenly along a wide cliff face in a white mane of spray and spume. Although not as high as some, there is an impressive volume of water and the location is quite pretty.

There is an admission charge but it is included if camping.

Skálholt

Just 18 km south of Faxi, Skálholt is an interesting detour. Like Hólar to the north, it is an ancient religious centre where the the first bishopric was founded in 1056.

The first cathedral in Iceland was built there in the 12th century. In the 16th century it was forced to convert to Lutheranism by Denmark. Due to their opposition, it became the site in 1550 of the execution of Jón Arason, the last Catholic bishop, along with two of his sons – a memorial to them now marks the spot.

Today a modern cathedral, which was finished in 1963, stands on the site with an array of abstract stained glass and a mosiac altar piece which is quite striking.

In the crypt there is the sarcophagus of Páll Jónsson, a bishop who died in 1211. An underground passage leads to the excavated ruins beyond the church where once there was a school and other buildings. To the other side, there is a reconstruction of a 14th chapel.

It is a pleasantly peaceful place to spend some time and does not seem to attract the crowds of the other sites. 

From here, the day trippers would start heading back towards Reykjavik, about an hour away. With time to spare, we drove on towards the delights of the southern coastline – it was more of a golden through route in our case!