A prisoner of war camp at Cowra in inland NSW, Australia, was the site of an infamous Japanese escape in August 1944. It was to be the largest POW breakout in military history with 234 Japanese prisoners and 5 Australian soldiers losing their lives.

The Japanese Attack on Darwin

It is said that everyone enjoys 5 minutes of fame. In his 24 years, Hajime Toyoshima enjoyed that and more, neatly bookending two tumultuous events in Australian history. However, it was not a fame he sought, so much so that he still hides under a fake name in the Cowra Japanese cemetery. 

It had all begun so gloriously for him. On 19th February, 1942, the Japanese attacked Darwin on the north coast of the Northern Territory of Australia.

As at Pearl Harbour just 2 months before, they achieved complete surprise, sinking 7 ships and damaging a further 15. 20 military aircraft were destroyed and some 250 people were killed, with hundreds more injured. 

21 year old Sergeant Hajime Toyoshima was part of the first wave in the attack. After playing his part in half an hour of death and destruction, at 10.30 am he turned towards his aircraft carrier 300 km away. 

However a machine gun bullet had pierced his oil tank and he was forced to ditch the aeroplane on the mud flats in Snake Bay, Melville Island. He hit his head on the gunsight, but managed to stagger from the wrecked Zero and rushed to a group of women seeking a hostage.

A Tiwi Island native, Matthias Ulungura,  had watched all the right movies. His son was amongst the threatened group: local folklore has it that he crept up behind Toyoshima, stuck his tomahawk in his back and growled “Stick ’em up!”

Toyoshima’s service revolver was removed from him and he was duly delivered to Bathurst Island by canoe, becoming the first prisoner of war to be captured on Australian soil.

Ulungura died in 1980 and his bravery was later commemorated by a statue on Bathurst Island. 

A different fate awaited Toyoshima. Bought up in the bushido tradition, where capture was considered dishonourable, he used an alias when he finally arrived at the Cowra Prisoner of War Camp in inland NSW, Australia.

His name was now Tadao Minami. 

Cowra Prisoner of War Camp

Cowra was chosen as the site of a prisoner of war camp as there was already a military training base there to provide support if needed

The first Italians arrived on 15th October 1941. By December 1942 it held over 2000 Italian prisoners of war and internees. 

Between January 1943 and August 1944 over 1000 Japanese prisoners arrived, as well as Chinese, Koreans, Albanians, Indonesians and more Italians. It was a volatile mix, although at least the Italians were afforded a modicum of trust and were allowed out to work.

The camp was divided into 4 compounds of 17 acres each, with a wide strip know as Broadway running north to south with 2 guard towers and two sentry boxes at each end. No Man’s Land ran east to west with a guard tower at each end.

The 1,104 Japanese soldiers and NCO’s were housed  in ‘B’ compound and although overcrowded were well cared for, to the extent that fresh fish was flown in from New Zealand for them.

Breakout! 

In August 1944, due to the chronic overcrowding, the Japanese prisoners were told that anyone under a Lance Corporal would be moved to a camp at Hay in southern NSW – this announcement is thought to have triggered the mass breakout which followed. 

Toyoshima was one of 3 compound leaders given 24 hours notice of the move. They felt the move was disrespectful and took a vote to riot (which wasn’t unanimous). 

The affair has actually been categorised more as a mass suicide attempt. It is difficult now to realise how inculcated the Japanese soldiers were with the ethos of loyalty to the Emperor, where victory came to those prepared to die and total dishonor to those who were captured.

Returned prisoners were shot or at the very least jailed, their families lost their jobs, their children were ostracised at school. It is no wonder that one P.O.W. refused to write to his family because of the disgrace of being a prisoner. It is no wonder that Toyoshima used a false name. 

On 5th August, 1944, at 1.50am, we have our final encounter with Toyoshima as he blew the bugle which was the signal for the breakout. Armed with crude weapons such as baseball bats and knives, the Japanese poured out of their barracks in a final death before dishonour charge. 

Shouting ‘Banzai’ (‘Long live the Emperor!’), the prisoners formed into groups of 200-300. 334 headed for the eastern perimeter fence, using blankets to climb over the wire. Only 5 were killed at this point.

Those who headed for the northern gate on Broadway ran into machine gun fire. Privates Jones and Hardy had put on great coats over their pajamas and dashed to man their gun when the alarm was sounded but were quickly overrun and killed.

Hardy managed to disable the gun before his death so the Japanese were unable to turn it on the Australians. A second Vickers gun continued firing into the Japanese. Only two actually got through, one of whom was killed after fatally stabbing Private Shepherd. 

In the melee, Toyoshima was shot in the chest and fell into a gutter. One can only admire the bravery and warrior spirit of this dying officer in his final minutes and wonder what thoughts went through his head: his family whom he had so carefully shielded from his dishonor? His beloved Emperor who himself would soon commit the ultimate betrayal and surrender his country? Or the power and beauty of the Zero, climbing into a blue unending sky?

We will never know. He pulled out a cigarette and smoked it, then, not wishing to die at the enemy’s hands, he cut his throat with a sharpened kitchen knife. 

Aftermath

In the following 9 days the escapees were rounded up although sadly Lieutenant Harry Doncaster was killed by a group near the Canowindra road (where a memorial stands today). He was unarmed and the raw recruits with him turned tail and ran, leaving him to his fate.

One Volunteer Defence Corps soldier would also appear to have been killed by friendly fire during the round-up, bringing the total to 5 deaths on the Australian side.

The final tally on the prisoner side was one Japanese officer killed, 230 other ranks dead (either killed or suicide) and 107 other ranks wounded.

Finally in 1946-47 the Japanese were repatriated. Many vanished into Japan to never talk of their experiences, a few have joined reunions at Cowra to honour their countrymen. 

The POW Camp Today

The site of the old POW camp is open 24 hours a day and is free to all. A recreated guard tower stands near the start of the visit with a recorded overview.

There is an excellent series of interpretive panels to explain the history of the camp and the breakout. A walk around the perimeter of the area has lovely views over the region. Although all of the buildings are largely lost and levelled, the path passes the ground level remains of some old bathroom blocks, kitchens and even an Italian fountain.

It is quite a hot, exposed walk on a sunny day so a hat and plenty of water are advisable!

There is also a walk through the adjacent Garrison area and the Japanese Gardens are nearby.

The Japanese War Cemetery 

A cemetery was established in Cowra for the Japanese killed in the breakout, as well as for those who had died previously.

In 1963 the Japanese considered repatriating the bodies but were so impressed by how well tended the cemetery was, that they asked the government if it could be recognised as an official Japanese War Cemetery.

This was opened on November 22nd, 1964 and subsequently all other Japanese nationals – both civilian and military – who had died in Australia during the war, were moved to Cowra. It is the only Japanese War Cemetery outside Japan.

It is a well kept spot, approached down a shady archway of trees. Neat blocks with plaques mark the graves. Flowers festoon the edges.

In uneasy juxtaposition, there is also an Australian War Cemetery adjoining it, where servicemen who died at Cowra Military Training Camp are buried, as well as the 5 soldiers who died during the breakout.

Cowra Visitor Information Centre 

As well as having the usual high standard of comprehensive information on the area and a great selection of local wines and produce, this houses the brilliant POW Hologram Theatre.

Bill Byson was bowled over by this when he visited Australia and it still impresses: the lively hologram of Claire, a young Cowra local, flits amongst the detritus of the Camp and brings the breakout to life. The 9 minute piece is set within a tin hut and there is also more information on the events.

There is a simple cafe at the centre whose outside seating is better than the interior if you want to grab a coffee. It overlooks the pretty Rose Gardens.

The Japanese Gardens

Designed by Ken Nakajima, this is the largest Japanese Garden in the southern hemisphere, with 12.5 acres of manicured gardens, lakes and cascading streams, recreating Japan against the backdrop of Cowra’s yellowing hills.

It is probably at its most flamboyant in the spring when all the blossoms come out but can be visited year round. There is an entry fee for this one and a cafe on site.

The Peace Bell

Made from the melted down coins of 106 United Nation countries this hangs in the Civic Square in recognition of Cowra’s contribution to world peace and international understanding. Feel free to ring it!

Yogkseki

A rock at the top of the hill in the Japanese Gardens is known as Yogoseki; it symbolises the place on earth where the spirits of Japanese and Australian soldiers come to find peace. 

When I first visited the Japanese War Cemetery, I Iooked for Hajime Toyoshima’s grave, but to my puzzlement, failed to find him. It was only on further investigation that I discovered that he is buried under his alias: Tadao Minami. Even in death, the man hides his disgrace from the world.

One can only hope his warrior spirit found Yogoseki finally amidst the undulating hills of Cowra.

NOTES

The Australian War Memorial has three items in their collection related to Toyoshima and his Zero. On public display is the bugle he used to signal the start of the breakout with the upper portion of the bell bent. In their collection but not on public display is his Senninbari (thousand stitch belt) donated by the family of the intelligence officer who took it plus a dataplate from his Zero with instructions for a front hydraulic shock absorber.