Though not unique to Wiltshire, the county has the largest concentration of hillside white horses in England. Cut out of the turf on the slopes of the rolling chalk downs, each has its unique history and view. Five are within a 5 mile radius of Avebury and its famous stone circle, the others only a little further. Visiting them reveals another fascinating facet of this pretty region.
1 The Westbury White Horse
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Check out the poem The White Horse of Westbury by Charles Tennyson Turner, one of whose lines I used in the title of the poem.
This is the oldest of the Wiltshire white horses, first being mentioned in 1742 then remodelled in 1778. This work was instigated by a Mr George Gee, would you believe? He apparently did not think the original sufficiently horse-like in appearance, though the horse you see today assumed its form at a still later remodelling in 1873.
It is also the biggest of the Wiltshire white horses, measuring 108 foot long x 182 foot high, and the only one depicted standing still. It is also one of the the few with a long tail.
However it is also the least authentic, as in the late 1950’s it was decided that it would be cheaper from a maintenance point of view to just fill it in with concrete. This was reapplied in 1995: its only saving grace is that at least it is painted white! It is also ironic that the fine view from its location on Westbury Hill is dominated by the remains of the local cement factory, soon to be superseded by a sea of solar power panels.
It sits under another large Iron Age fort known as Bratton Camp; the tips of its ears actually touch the outer ramparts. On clear days the Alton Barnes white horse is visible in the distance and the Mendips are away to the west.
There is parking on top of the hill nearby so it is easily accessible via a short flat walk.
Westbury would not be described as a gastronomic haven: the White Horse cafe on the main street is the traditional greasy spoon caff and as good a bet as any.
2 The Cherhill White Horse
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It is the nature of the beast that one usually enjoys great views from their locations. However, here the pleasures are threefold, as not only does the Cherhill White Horse enjoy fine views, but it lies in the folds of the hills below the vast Oldbury Castle earthwork and just beside the Lansdowne Monument.
The Cherhill white horse is found on Cherhill Down, just east of Cherhill village on the A4 Calne – Marlborough road. It is the second oldest of the Wiltshire horses, being designed and cut in 1780 by Dr. Christopher Alsop from Calne – also known as the ‘mad doctor’. Apparently he shouted instructions at a distance using a megaphone. He was friendly with the painter George Stubbs and could have been influenced by him
It originally had a glass eye made from upturned bottles which sparkled in the sun, but these had disappeared by the mid 19th century. It was last restored in 2002 when 160 tonnes of chalk were used.
Oldbury Castle is a 22 acre Iron Age (1200 BC – 1 BC) site sitting just above the horse; it is amazing to walk around the great twin ditches and to think that all this work was done by hand. Classic Wiltshire views abound with rolling downs and the ancient Ridgeway trail across the the valley. You cannot miss the 125 foot Lansdowne Monument, built in 1845 by the 3rd Marquis of Lansdowne to commemorate Sir William Petty, one of his ancestors.
The Monument is a good place for a picnic lunch, or drop down to the Divine Cafe on the A4 in Cherhill for good breakfasts and light lunches: it is deservedly popular with the local cycle club, amongst others.
3 The Marlborough White Horse
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This is probably the least distinguished of the white horses and also the smallest, though it is an old one, being designed by William Canning, a pupil from Mr Greasley’s Academy on the High Street in Marlborough and cut by his fellow pupils in 1804. Its annual cleaning became a school ritual until its closure in 1830.
Despite periods of neglect, it has managed to cling on to its little niche on Granham Hill and is now cared for by Marlborough College. It is also known as the Preshute White Horse after the nearby village just to the south of the A345 Marlborough – Calne road and it is an easy approach from there.
There is parking at the Preshute church, which is worth checking out for its great round black font, dating back to the 12th century and thought to have come from the chapel at Marlborough Castle. Made from black Tournai marble from Belgium, it is one of only 7 in the country – some say that King John was christened at it. The church itself was largely rebuilt in 1850. It is then a short easterly amble to the horse, crossing the playing fields of Marlborough College en route.
The view is not that extensive, largely over the college buildings and with a distant glimpse of the High Street in Marlborough. The horse is also due a facelift at present. On the way back it is worth checking out the big ponds on the other side of the track where there is a surprising variety of birdlife, then following the pleasant path beside the River Kennet back to the church.
Marlborough is a lovely town with great independent shops and places to eat. Rick Stein has recently arrived but for a light lunch or coffee and cakes I like the characterful Church Tearooms, in the old St Peter’s church at the western end of the High Street. The Polly Tearooms on the High Street are also a West Country institution.
4 The Alton Barnes White Horse
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This is one of my favourite white horses, overlooking the unspoilt and beautiful Pewsey Vale. It sits on the slopes of Milk Hill. This and the nearby Tan Hill, are jointly the highest points in Wiltshire at 294m. The horse is 1 mile north of the village of Alton Barnes and is best approached from the Alton Barnes – Lockeridge road. The walk leads past a long barrow known as Adam’s Grave and curves round the hills with sweeping views over the vale.
The horse has an interesting history. It was commissioned by Robert Pile of Manor Farm, Alton Barnes who employed a travelling inn sign painter called John Thorne to design and cut the horse in 1812. He paid £20 in advance. Thorne drew the horse from the bridge at Honeystreet which is still a good viewing point; it rather resembles the one at Cherhill. However, he then employed a local man to start the digging while he disappeared with the money. He was later caught and hanged for a variety of crimes, though this didn’t help Pile much: he had to pay out again to get the horse finished.
In World War II there was an airstrip on the flat lands below the horse and it was actually covered over in case it served as a landmark for German bombers. A trio of protective pillboxes are clustered by the road to its south and others are to be seen in the area.
It also has a history of being illuminated on occasion, most notably on the winter solstice. This looks really spectacular and photos can be seen in another worthwhile stop in the area: the photo museum beside the road to the south of Alton Barnes village. This quirky delight used to be the village newsagents but now the small room has an eclectic collection of family and local photographs and a few other bits and bobs: it is fascinating and very English!
Drive a little way further south and you will find the Honeystreet Cafe on the left at Honeystreet Wharf, just before the bridge over the Kennet and Avon canal. This cosy shabby chic cafe has squishy sofas, newspapers and wifi, as well as as great coffee and cakes; it also does lunches and has a lovely little garden overlooking the canal for warmer days. You can rent day boats and canoes if you want to explore on the water.
Over the bridge and to the right is the Barge Inn, a gathering place for crop circle enthusiasts and enjoying a lovely position right on the canal. Check out the hippy paintings inside, then kick back with a real ale by the canal and enjoy an unrivalled view of the White Horse.
5 The Hackpen White Horse
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Another easy horse to visit, with parking directly above it on a minor road to Rockley, just off the Avebury to Swindon A4361 road. It is best viewed from this approach road and is actually quite a small thin model, though apparently it looks better proportioned from the air.
It sits on a hillside under the Ridgeway, one of England’s oldest tracks, which follows the chalk ridge for 85 miles from near Avebury to Ivanhoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire. It is thought to date back to 1838 and be the work of a parish clerk and a publican, probably to celebrate the coronation of Queen Victoria.
It is not very far from the Broad Town white horse, and Avebury is also close by with its megalithic stones encompassing the pretty village. Another mile or so brings you to the pyramid-like Silbury Hill, the largest prehistoric monument in Europe and the West Kennet long barrow, so there is lots to do in the area.
The Red Lion at Avebury is a popular pub, more due to its location at the centre of the stone circle than anything else. More reliable pub food can be found locally at the White Horse Inn in Winterbourne Bassett.
6 The Broad Town White Horse
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This little horse is well tucked away on a short steep hillside just to the north east of the Broad Hinton to Wootton Bassett road and is reached by a short 20 minute walk through flat farnland from Cockroost Farm. This brings you to the top of the horse’s head and there is a lovely view over the vales below. On a recent visit, it appeared to have been freshly chalked which was very springy to walk on.
It dates back to 1864 when William Simmonds, the farmer of Little Town Farm, decided to create a white horse. He claimed that he had intended to make it bigger, but lost the farm before he could do so. However, some believe that he only scoured it and that it may be older.
The best overall view is from the church in Broad Town, the little village which nestles below.
For local refreshment, the Crown at Broad Hinton is an an attractive friendly pub with a good choice of burgers and other pub staples.
7 The Pewsey White Horse
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This horse brings us into the 20th century, being cut in 1937. It replaced an original that had been cut by Robert Pile in 1785, which had subsequently been lost.
In 1937, it was decided to cut another one to commemorate the coronation of King George VI at the suggestion of George Marples, an authority at the time on the white horses. He submitted 3 designs and the chosen one was cut into the ground slightly above and to the left of the original by the Pewsey Fire Brigade – times had certainly moved on!
It is situated on Pewsey Hill, about a mile south of Pewsey and can either be approached from above, off the Pewsey – Everleigh road or by footpath from below, when you can enjoy it gradually getting closer and closer until a final short sharp climb brings you to its fenced enclosure.
A nearby seat will allow you to catch your breath and admire the sweeping views north over Pewsey and away towards the Alton Barnes White Horse.
Nearby refreshment possibilities include the Waterfront pub at Pewsey Wharf with a nice garden overlooking the canal and reliable pub food or try the brilliant The Shed Alehouse (theshedalehouse.com) on the main street in Pewsey: basically a front porch but done up brilliantly to resemble a garden shed. It is only about 10m² so a great place to meet the locals and they brew their own ale: try the smooth and fragrant hoppy Prong.
8 The Devizes White Horse
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A white horse was cut at Whitsun 1845 on the steep slopes of Roundway Hill, just to the north of Devizes, by a bunch of shoemakers. It was thus nicknamed the Snobs Horse, ‘snob’ being an old term for shoemaker.
Lying under Olivier’s Castle, an ancient hillfort, it was lost to neglect by the end of the century though there are 20th century photos which reveal a ghostly outline in snowy winters.
In 1954, a Devizes school did a project on the horse and a pupil, Peter Greed, drew a design for its reinstatement, but as is often the way, nothing was ever done.
Then in 1999 came suggestions to create a hill figure to celebrate the Millennium and when a horse was suggested, Peter Greed’s original design was dusted off. However there is one important difference: the design was reversed so that the horse faces to the right, the only one in Wiltshire to do so. The site was also switched to the other side of the hill, about a mile from the original.
It is easily reached by road from the village of Roundway and there is parking just above the entrance gate. It is now maintained by the Probation Community Service. While up on the hill, it is worth walking out to see Olivier’s Castle with its distinctive cluster of trees. There are lovely views from the iron age ramparts and an important civil war battle occurred on the upland plains behind it on the 13th July 1643. The defeated Roundheads fled down the slopes around the hillfort where their ghosts can still be seen by some.
For local refreshments it is hard to beat the old Black Swan coaching inn in the Market Square in Devizes. Taken over by a genial antique dealer in 2015, his eclectic stock now overflows into the pub and adds to the cosy character. and there is a lush courtyard garden for warmer months. The food is pretty good too and there is also accommodation. However, it changed hands again recently (November 2017) so things may change.
Lost Horses
It is believed that there were once another 5 white horses in Wiltshire, but they are lost to time and neglect, though under the rolling downs their spirits gallop still. Occasionally an aerial photo will reveal an echo of them, a ghost horse glimpsed out of the corner of an eye.
However, we are lucky to still have the substantial horses that I have written about above with their fascinating histories. Next time you are driving past, stop, take a second look, take a walk,and enjoy some of the finest views in Wiltshire.
