The Monsal Trail is a popular recreational trail for walkers, cyclists and riders in Derbyshire, England. Offering superb access to some of the loveliest country in the Peak District, it also lies between the two attractive towns of Bakewell and Buxton, worthwhile destinations in their own right.
The Monsal Trail
There are some who lament the closing of the railway branch lines but there is no denying that their rejuvenation as leisure trails have helped the local economies of today.
A £2.5 million makeover has now produced the Monsal Trail, one of the most popular walking, cycling and horse riding tracks in the Peak District of Derbyshire. In addition, it allows disabled access with its well groomed level surfaces.
The Monsal Trail runs on an 8 ½ mile section of the old Midland Railway Manchester to London line that closed in 1968. It starts at Blackwell Mill at Chee Dale, 4 miles south of Buxton on the A6, and runs to Bakewell, allowing access to some of the most beautiful limestone country in Derbyshire.
One of the best ways to explore is by bicycle and these can be easily hired at Blackwell Mill, a scenic spot on the river Wye. Passing the sheer cliffs of Chee Dale you soon encounter the first of 6 tunnels, 4 of them over 400 m long. These are quite dark and atmospheric though there is subdued lighting.
The delights follow in quick succession: the old 1863 station at Millers Dale which usually has a van selling yummy local ice cream, views over the 18th century cotton mills at Cressbrook Dale and Litton, now apartments, and the lovely views at Water-cum-Jolly and Monsal Head, the latter with a good pub if you make the uphill climb.
Hassop Station has a pleasant cafe with outdoor seating on the old station platform. There is also a little book section and bicycles can be hired here as well. There are large parking areas at the stations en route and it is easy to incorporate part of the trail in a nice circular walk or ride.
The trail ends just above Bakewell and there is a short drop down the hill to reach this famous market town.
Bakewell
Of course one instantly thinks of Bakewell Pudding, but there is more to this really pleasant town than that. Situated on the Wye with an attractive five arched medieval bridge spanning the river, there is still an aimiable small town feel to the place.
Unencumbered by supermarkets, there is a good variety of independant shops, although you will be spoilt for choice as to where to buy that pudding – I like the Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop which also has a good cafe.
A good browsing spot is the Rutland Arms Antiques Centre near the town roundabout which has numerous dealers under one roof and a quiet cafe off the tourist beat. Once a month, there is one of the biggest farmers markets in the country with wonderful local produce, right down to homemade dog food! The Castle Inn is a popular downtown pub, especially on Mondays when the livestock market takes place. It also offers accommodation.
Bakewell has two notable country houses on its doorstep, the most famous being Chatsworth, a Classical beauty nestling in Capability Brown parkland on the river Derwent. The house in its present guise dates from a 1686-1707 makeover of an Elizabethan core. If you don’t want to cough up the money to visit the house itself, there are nice walks in the park and in the woods above where you will find the 1580’s Hunting Tower, today some unique accommodation. There is excellent shopping and cafes in the 19th century stable block. For the iconic framed photo of the house, descend down to the river on the far side of the bridge.
Just round the corner at Pilsley, you will find the Chatsworth Farm Shop which has a range of wonderful foods – I like the ‘Duke’s favourite marmalade’ but there are lots of other goodies to choose from. There is also a nice cafe. Locals in the know save the 10% discount voucher found in the local free magazines and put it towards their Christmas hampers. Nearby is another Chatsworth offshoot, the Devonshire Arms, which offers upmarket accommodation and good food.
To the south, parts of Haddon Hall predate Chatsworth by 300 years and its unspoilt Elizabethan interiors are beloved of film makers – think Pride and Prejudice and the other Boleyn Girl. The principal house and gardens were laid out in the 17th century but were effectively mothballed for 200 years from 1700 until restoration in the 1920’s, so today you see one of the finest fortified medieval houses in England.
The banqueting hall with the Minstrels Gallery is unchanged and the Tudor Long Gallery is breathtaking with its tiny diamond Bombay glass panes in the curved leaded windows. Of the two great houses this one is by far the most atmospheric.
There are some lovely villages in the area to explore and the Bakewell tourist office is a good place to pick up maps and get ideas for walks. Ashford-in-the-Water is one example with the 17th century Sheepwash Bridge where sheep were dipped until quite recently.
The Holy Trinity church has 4 virgins garlands hanging inside, the oldest dating back to 1747: these white wreaths once accompanied virgins at their funerals. The Bull’s Head is a popular real ale pub.
Buxton
Buxton has one of the two natural mineral springs developed in Britain by the Romans, the other of course being Bath. The main spring subsequently had a pagan shrine above its well but both were closed during the Reformation. However in about 1570 the well was reopened and people started visiting to take the water again.
The Earl of Shrewsbury built Buxton Hall nearby to house the more distinguished guests: this is now the Old Hall Hotel and is reputed to be the oldest hotel in England. Mary Queen of Scots was one of its early visitors when she sought relief from rheumatism.
Having experienced the delights of Bath, in 1780 the 5th Duke of Cavendish decided to develop Buxton as a spa town. St Ann’s Well was moved across the road from his new hotel which emulated Bath’s great crescent designs. The water still flows from a pump today and you will often see people filling up water bottles – unlike Bath, this water actually tastes good too.
Up the hill a great domed building was built in 1779 for the visitors horses and staff. The 150 foot dome is still Europe’s largest unsupported dome and today it houses the University of Derby. It is an impressive sight and there is a cafe and spa inside.
The hotel is undergoing a £50 million renovation project at present, estimated to finish in 2019 with the opening of a 5 star luxury spa hotel. This should give a much needed lift to the town which is still surprisingly low key despite its obvious charm.
The Pavilion Gardens were laid out in the 1830’s and remodeled in their present guise in 1870. They were originally part of the Buxton Hall grounds and today’s lakes are thought to have originally been fishponds. The attractive pavilion has an airy cafe and gallery and to one end an orangery leads to the 1901 Opera House which has a varied repertoire throughout the year.
No. 6 The Square Tearooms just opposite have won teashop of the year awards in the past and they also have bedrooms within the Georgian Regency house. The nearby Old Hall Hotel has a good bar for pre performance drinks.
A walk up to the old Market Square takes you past Buxton Museum and Art Gallery which has recently reopened after refurbishment. It offers a great overview of the area and has such delights as a mermaid and a bear, as well as a recently commissioned rather special stained glass window made from the local Blue John, a semi precious stone that is only found in the Peak District.
Just beyond the Market Square is Scrivener’s, a wonderful second hand bookshop covering 5 floors. If you wish to extend your walk further, Poole’s Cavern is only about 15 minutes away. It is the only natural limestone cavern in the Peak District, the others been formed by mining, and has a good array of stalagmites and stalactites for a rainy day. A further short hike up Grin Hill will bring you to Solomon’s Temple, a Victorian tower or folly with superb 360° views from the top.
The country to the north of Buxton is notably wilder than the gentle dales of the Bakewell end: here you can find wide tracts of moorland where grouse cry and winds rustle the heather. A walk up Kinder Scout rewards with stunning scenery and wind worn outcrops. It was here that the Mass Trespass of 1932 by 400 marchers instigated public access to the countryside for all.
Just Rewards
All in all, with the delights of the Monsal Trail and the beautiful country of the Peak District, there is much to keep the outdoor enthusiast occupied. The towns of Buxton and Bakewell provide a welcome contrast and are great bases for exploring this beautiful region. A yummy slice of Bakewell Pudding will be the perfect reward!
