Montrol-Senard and Mortemart are two very attractive historic villages in the Limousin area of central France.

 

I like to think we have a low impact lifestyle without television, dishwashers or central heating. However, the one thing I think I would miss is a washing machine and wandering around the villages of France, one realizes how far removed we are today from how others once lived.

In nearly every village there is a lavoir, a communal washing area where the facilities can vary between a large stone trough to bigger more elaborate basins. They usually have running water and these days serve largely as a welcome source of fresh, cold water for the weary hiker.  Their state of maintenance can be anywhere between abandoned to pristine though most of the little communes seem to take pride in maintaining their lavoirs. Some are even reputed to have medicinal qualities or to be especially pure, so that one will quite often see people filling up water containers from their taps.

Montrol-Senard

It is amusing to see all the different designs but recently in Montrol-Senard I came across the piece de la resistance of lavoirs. The size of a small swimming pool, its green waters looked quite inviting, and it nestled just off the main square within its own walled enclosure. At intervals round the edges were agenouillees, a combined scrubbing/kneeling device in wood for the washerwomen – and this was solely womens work!

Imagine the hullabaloo when these were in use, the frantic scrubbing, beating, pounding and gossiping! Twice a year in spring and autumn they really went to town with la bujade, the big wash, when everything was taken out of chests and cupboards and washed. Today, there is an interesting history of the washing process on the walls and a display of various implements that would have been used, scattered amongst colorful flower baskets.

Still astonished by the lavoir, I proceeded to explore the rest of this fascinating little village, centred around a plain church dating back to the XIIth century. Christ on his cross rather appears to be wearing a skirt!

Somehow France has managed to preserve buildings that in England would have been pulled down or converted years ago and Montrol-Senard has put in place a little trail around a collection of buildings designed to evoke rural life at the start of the 20th century.

So wandering around, one can explore the Chabatz d’Entrar house, the original open plan lifestyle within just one room, with bed to one end and kitchen to the other (check out the neat baby walker on one wall). Next door is the cellar/stable.

Behind this is a bizarre barn that appears to be partly museum and partly bric a brac, though a lot of it appears to be an antique pram collection – look through the hole in the wall for a crazy assortment of prams and dolls.

Below the square is the school where boys and girls were educated separately and a further cluster of buildings on the south side of the village include a cider barn, a clog maker and a blacksmiths: they have done a really good job of it all and it is a fascinating look at a forgotten time.

A short walk up a hill will bring you to the cemetery with its ancient lanterne des morts, a stone building that once held a light for the dead, though the origins of these towers are somewhat obscure. The oldest, dating back to the XIIth century, are found in France and Limoges is the epicentre. This one was converted into a funerary chapel and all around it is a veritable field of picturesque old crosses and unusual antique graves with suspended granite tables.

We lunched at La Table du Lavoir, just below the church, which has good food and  weekday menus from 22 euros. It is in a nice old barn with a big terrace. Thus fortified, we decided to walk on to Mortemart, classified as one of the ‘most beautiful villages in France’, and only about 20 minutes away on picturesque old tracks.

Mortemart

Our little walk led past a pretty lake, skirted the cemetery then followed the embankment round the chateau moat into the main square of Montemart.

This village grew up round the chateau which dates back to 995 and was the seat of the famous Rochechouart-Mortemart family, one of whom, the Marquise de Montespan, later became a favorite of King Louis XIV. It is presently being restored but the helpful tourist office is housed in a barn in its inner courtyard.

Another person was also highly influential in the village’s growth: Cardinal Pierre Gauvin, who built three convents. The Carmelite order received the poor and provided a hospital to those in need; today its monumental porch provides a scenic frame to the old convent behind.

The Augustinian convent is in better shape today, with an austere facade from an 18th century renovation. It fell into private hands after the Revolution but the former chapel is now the Parish Church and is well worth a visit.

Inside there are wonderful carved oaken choirstalls from the 15th century decorated with a plethora of animal and human figures. One monk clutches his jaw, in obvious agony from toothache; another appears to be lifting his robe to squat while the bishop and Saint Peter look on impassively. Others play musical instruments. Each pew has a fine design of its own, with either animal, human or vegetation theme. They are beautifully done and quite fascinating.

 

Funnily enough, the third convent, an order of Chartreuse monks, did not last long and there are no remains left at all: apparently it did not prove to be the best place in which to practise their religious vows of solitude and prayer – obviously too many nuns around!

A little alley leads from the Carmelite porch back to the square in front of the chateau and the striking timbered hall from late 17th/early 18th century.  Again, oak is the dominant wood with chestnut battens. Scattered around nearby are various picturesque old houses.

 

The Cafe de Marche is well sited between the market hall and the chateau and is a nice place to sit and enjoy the views of this pretty village. We only had coffee but they do provide food and it seems popular with english ex-pats – I suspect it is actually English owned. It is indeed very easy to see the charm of these two diverse villages.

Exchange Rate: £1 = E1.12