You may well spot the lovely old town of Uzerche high above the motorway south of Limoges in central France – it is well worth a detour.
Uzerche enjoys a fantastic location on a cliff top high above the Vezere river which, apart from the southern end, encircles it to all sides. It is very visible from the motorway (in this case the A20 south of Limoges) so you might well find yourself passing it by while thinking that it looks as if it would be a good place to explore.
And indeed it is: known as the pearl of the Limousin, its history dates back to the bronze age. In the 8th century it resisted a seige by the Saracens, the story being that after trying to starve them out for 7 years, the raiders gave up when a fat cow was released. Not realising that it was the last the town possessed, the Saracens believed they would never conquer a place so obviously rich in supplies.
After valiently resisting the English in 1374, Charles V allowed them to add three fleur-de-lis and a crown to the towns arms and these can still be seen today on the only surviving 14th century gateway, the Porte Becherie, on the south side of town. The Heritage Loop incorporates it on a simple town walk that covers all the main sites on a short meander along the towns streets.
I had actually expected more of a fortified town but little actually remains of the fortifications or the 8 other gateways today . However what does exist is a lovely accumulation of large mostly 17th century houses, many with massive doors and window surrounds – this leads to the local saying: ’Who has a house in Uzerche has a chateau in the Limousin ‘.
One curiosity that can be spotted on many of the doors is hanging clumps of walnut leaves. These were used in olden times to ward off plagues and they were traditionally hung on the day of Saint Jean, June 24th, then left in place until the following year. Today the practice continues – some add wheat and a rose to create health, money and love!
There is a large church at the top of the town and from the nearby terrace, excellent views over the Vezere. The Turgot bridge can be seen below with an ancient tannery building just upstream on its right bank – this industry took off in the XVI th century along the river and lasted right up to modern times.
There are a couple of cafes on the square by the church to pause a while.
At the lower level of town, the river is the focal point. Near the Turgot Bridge on the right bank there is a popular free parking spot for motor homes. This is by the old railway station whose line once linked Paris to the region. Today its high embankment is a great place for a scenic flat walk and it offers superb views over the hilltop town.
On the other side, a path runs right alongside the river with fine views of the rather muddy Vezere, hemmed in by tall trees on all sides. The town has a beautifully located municipal campsite right beside the river with adjacent canoe hire and rock climbing.
For smart accommodation at the top of the old town, the Joyet de Maubec Hotel is a good choice with its high towers above the river and Michelin guide restaurant.
A more middle of the range option is the nicely situated Teyssier Hotel by the Turgot bridge with rooms from 55 euros and menus from 22 euros.
The little town is indeed a great place to linger for a couple of days and makes an good base for further exploration in the region.
Exchange Rate: £1 = E1.12
